Canada by Motorcycle - From the South to the Arctic Circle!

One man, 2 wheels, 2 months, and 20,000 km of Adventure!

Over the past few years, I’ve had the chance to visit Europe and especially South America on several occasions for months at a time. I love traveling, discovering new horizons, different cultures, and languages. I enjoy visiting completely unknown cities, climbing mountains and volcanoes, and trekking through deserts and rainforests.

Yet, I hate driving.

Actually, I don’t hate driving itself; I simply have an aversion to the automobile and the consequences it has on the daily life of an explorer (and a Montreal resident!). I certainly don’t like circling for two hours to find parking, or paying 100 euros to fill the tank. I also don’t like the feeling of enclosure and detachment that comes from being inside a closed cabin (or even an open one like a convertible).

There is always what I consider a more “real” way to travel: by public transport with a backpack. This method of discovery isn’t always easy, however, and comes with several constraints. Indeed, it is difficult to get off the beaten path and discover less touristy, more remote places. You have to settle for destinations served by buses or trains, or rely on taxis, which aren’t always very economical.

While this method allows for closer contact with the local population, it doesn’t eliminate the sense of enclosure and doesn’t always provide the feeling of freedom and change of scenery I seek.

Since I was 16, I have always owned a car. For me, it was a visceral need, a way of life, and also a status symbol. It was also a major source of expenses and, with current costs of acquisition, maintenance, and gas, it became one expense too many—especially considering the distances I covered annually.

In 2006, at the end of my vehicle’s long-term lease, I decided to return the car and not renew the contract. Simultaneously, I had the opportunity to be transferred for work to downtown Montreal. Living in the Notre-Dame-de-Grâce neighborhood, I could then easily commute by bike or take the metro when the weather didn’t cooperate!

Of course, it wasn’t an easy adjustment. Cycling in my city is “slightly” perilous (merciless pavement, reckless drivers, blind pedestrians, weather…). The metro is relatively uncomfortable because it’s far too crowded during rush hour and breaks down too often. During an autumn outing (the famous Montreal “5 à 7” happy hour!), I decided to walk along St-Laurent Boulevard to head to a small bistro in Outremont when I passed by a Vespa dealer. They are charming, these little machines!

In fact, I had never really considered buying a motorcycle, let alone a scooter. My work had given me the “chance” to see the consequences of motorcycle accidents, and I had promised myself I would never buy that type of vehicle. I had owned a few bikes over the years, but without much conviction. Uncomfortable, impractical, cold, and hot were the words that came to mind when thinking of motorcycles.

However, a few trips to Europe showed me a different reality. On that continent, this mode of transport is simply linked to efficiency and constitutes one of the only practical solutions to urban congestion. I believe that over there, it is a way of life rather than a leisure activity like it is here.

To make a long story short, two days later, I was zipping through the saturated streets of Montreal on a superb Vespa GTx 250!!! Wow, what a great bike! I am free, finally!!! Top speed of 140 km/h, easy to weave through heavy traffic. Obviously, I’m not in Europe where you find these machines on every street corner. I get called every name in the book by some, while others roll down their windows to voice their approval of this “eco-friendly” move. But ultimately, I loved this new lifestyle, to the point of always wanting to go a bit further, sometimes leaving the city behind.

While this machine offered a cruising speed that allowed for comfortable highway travel, it wasn’t designed for it. The braking, steering, engine, and suspension were adequate but made longer trips uncomfortable and sometimes perilous.

In the spring of 2007, during a weekend ride, I made a mistake that would prove very costly. I stopped, just to “look,” at a BMW Motorrad dealer near my house. Two days later, I was riding a 2007 BMW R1200GS, ready to conquer the whole world!!!

I fell totally in love with BMW’s GS series. A machine I didn’t really know but which, as if in a dream, was waiting for me—as if someone had produced a motorcycle intended exactly for what I was looking for: Adventure.

My goal is simple and clear: to complete a solo trip from Canada to Argentina (specifically Patagonia). Obviously, this doesn’t happen in a few days or even a few months. You have to practice, practice, and practice some more, but above all, plan and get to know your limits.

The summer of 2007 took me to the Maritimes and Colorado. I covered 20,000 km, which allowed me to see the limits of the machine (and my own!). Upon returning from Denver, I decided to look at the long term and trade my GS for the 2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure model.

It is a similar bike but offers advantages that addressed the problems encountered during my first trips:

• Substantial increase in range thanks to a tank allowing for 700 km;
• Enduro Transmission allowing for easier off-road riding or when the bike is loaded (shorter 1st gear);
• Better front protection with a larger windshield;
• Electronic Suspension allowing for handling adjustments in various conditions (bumpy roads, off-road, passenger, and luggage);
• More powerful electrical system for accessories (heated vest, GPS);
• Better leg protection;
• Higher riding position, an advantage on trails or rough roads;
• Metal storage cases (stronger, more space, more secure);
• Better lighting (auxiliary lights);
• Power outlets for accessories;
• Spoked wheels (stronger).

I finally received the beast in April 2008 after long months of winter waiting. In fact, the winter of 2008 was certainly the most difficult of my existence. Having bought the bike, I decided not to take a trip, and this decision coincided with the harshest winter ever recorded in Quebec! Meters of snow, like never before! On the other hand, this allowed me to work hard on planning a major first outing that would serve as practice for an eventual trip to Patagonia: crossing my country and reaching Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. The end of the road because, literally, it is impossible to go any further in the country during the summer.

I initially considered going to Mexico, but I quickly pivoted toward Canada for a very simple reason: I had never crossed and truly visited my own country!

I read nearly every adventure website, bought a few books, and began drafting the route planning and the necessary gear to accomplish such a crossing alone and self-sufficiently.

So, here is a brief summary of my Adventure, written daily in my spare time.