[{"content":"08:00 Montreal (QC) Starting Odometer: 9798 km\n19:30 Sault Ste. Marie (ON) 1009 km\nAnd so it begins.\nAfter all these months of preparation, it is finally time to set off for Adventure!\nKilometer 0 (yes, ZERO!): first equipment failure!\nWhile preparing the bike last night, I dropped it, likely due to nerves. Result: a broken clutch lever. I quickly decide to live with it for now, as it snapped at the tip and remains functional. Still, a solid $100 wasted without even leaving the house!\nI leave at the same time as Nadine, who is heading to work. She doesn\u0026rsquo;t seem very happy to see me go, which is understandable. It’s an extraordinary adventure, carrying its share of dangers and real risk. Furthermore, the number of weeks away is substantial and won\u0026rsquo;t be easy to manage.\nThe bike is very heavy, and I need to get used to it quickly. Getting out of Montreal is a struggle due to heavy traffic, but the weather is perfect: beautiful and warm.\nNot for long, though!\nI get onto the 417 toward Ottawa and Northern Ontario. A light rain sets in, as if to warn me of what\u0026rsquo;s to come. Nothing too serious, however. As soon as I leave Quebec, the road improves significantly. For those not from the province, it’s worth noting that our road conditions are execrable. The state of the pavement, the signage, and the road layout are simply pathetic.\nThere is little traffic. I ride slowly, around 110 km/h, which is very conservative, economical, and above all, comfortable. This is the pace I was aiming for and hope to maintain. It would be easy to ride at 130 or 140 km/h, but I am on vacation; I don’t want to stress about the police or animals, which are very present in this area.\nThe landscape is rather monotonous. I pass Ottawa and Petawawa without incident, heading toward Northern Ontario.\nJust before Sudbury, I literally hit a weather front. I enter a wall of wind that makes the temperature drop from 30°C to a chilly 17°C in seconds. I have to pull out the heated vest almost immediately.\nAfter a few hours on the road, I arrive in Sault Ste. Marie. I decide to take a hotel room, even though I had planned to camp, because it is definitely too cold. Off to a great start. I also realize I might not have enough warm clothes—not for riding, but for the evenings and activities.\nI decide to completely rethink my luggage organization, as the current distribution doesn\u0026rsquo;t suit me. With the tires strapped to the top box, the box is inaccessible, and the side panniers are difficult to reach. So, I place all the items I won\u0026rsquo;t need daily into the top box.\nMy transport strategy is simple: everything must fit inside the storage. I am using the original aluminum panniers from my 2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure. They are sturdy, spacious, and above all, secure since they lock. The tires are securely attached to the top box with a wire cable and a padlock. The only unsecured item is a small, inexpensive cooler.\nWhile I am working on the bike, I am approached by two retired Ontarians on their way to Moab. They are riding a BMW R1100GS and an R1200GS. They are carrying an incredible amount of luggage! They explain that they are going camping and they like their comfort.\nI take out the stove to cook some good homemade pasta, and bedtime arrives quickly. I need to be in shape for tomorrow!\nDid I mention that Sault Ste. Marie looks like a ghost town?\n","date":"9 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/01_day-1-ontario/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The grand departure from Montreal marked by the first equipment failure, fickle weather, and the first logistical adjustments heading toward Sault Ste. Marie.","title":"Day 1: Ontario","type":"post"},{"content":"07:00 Sault Ste. Marie (ON)\n19:30 Rushing River Provincial Park (ON) 1139 km\nA second long day on the road. The landscape has diversified slightly thanks to the appearance of the Great Lakes. However, it was cold (between 12 and 14°C) for this time of year. It’s incredible to find such temperatures in the middle of July!\nThe road conditions are perfect. The asphalt is flawless, and passing lanes are frequent. Traffic flows smoothly. I have a lot of time to think, and I find it difficult to accept or even explain to myself why, with an identical climate, Quebec\u0026rsquo;s roads are so pathetic. I would love to visit my own province more, but the state of the pavement constantly makes me hesitate.\nMost of the time, I am alone. I rarely encounter other vehicles and pass a few slower ones from time to time. The weather is relatively nice, despite a bit of rain during the day.\nI decide to head into the city of Thunder Bay to take a well-deserved break and explore the area a bit. Oof, another ghost town without much interest; the visit is therefore limited to a few streets.\nI quickly continue my way toward the far west of the province. I decide to brave the cold (which eases up at the end of the day) to spend a night camping, just to save a little and truly feel like I\u0026rsquo;m on vacation!\nOuch, $30 for a night of camping isn\u0026rsquo;t cheap! We are a long way from European rates. Well, at least I am well settled and, as a bonus, a beautiful lake keeps calling my name. The water is a bit cold, but the jump is worth it! And yes, I am officially on vacation.\n","date":"10 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/02_day-2-ontario-bis/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A long trek through Western Ontario featuring pristine roads and autumnal temperatures, ending with the first night of camping.","title":"Day 2: Ontario... Again!","type":"post"},{"content":"09:00 Rushing River Provincial Park (ON)\n12:00 Winnipeg (MB) 270 km\nThe Rain! (Note the capital R!)\nIt rained lightly all night, but luck granted me a one-hour window upon waking to pack my things and prep the bike.\nTraveling this way is truly different; I am totally at the mercy of the weather and nature. Everything is wet.\nFirst lesson: always keep the next morning\u0026rsquo;s clothes inside the tent! It’s no fun going out to retrieve your things in the cold and rain. I quickly lose body heat and have to dress fast to stay comfortable.\nMy first night in the forest gave me a bit of trouble and was relatively expensive, but it was relaxing and appreciated. I imagine I’ll eventually establish a routine and things will become simpler with practice.\nOn an encouraging note: I am already ahead of my schedule and have very little driving to do today to reach Winnipeg, where I plan to spend the night. 250 km maximum! It’s child\u0026rsquo;s play.\nOf course, nothing is ever that easy on a motorcycle.\nThe temperature drops below 10 degrees and the rain gets serious. And when I say rain, I’m not talking about a gentle little shower, but one-liter drops straight from the Ice Age! I stop to gas up in Kenora (ON), a pretty village surrounded by lakes, but the deluge prevents any thorough visiting.\nThe cloud cover is so thick that it is literally dark. After 45 minutes, here I am in Manitoba! As promised, I have to take a photo of the sign, but what a storm! I summon my courage and pull over on the shoulder for two quick shots in the middle of the lightning.\nIt’s impressive to see how crossing the border transforms the landscape. Almost instantaneously, I go from a winding road lined with lakes to a four-lane highway, straight into infinity. Despite the rain, riding becomes easy. I engage the cruise control and relax a bit, taking my \u0026ldquo;shower\u0026rdquo; while moving. Jokes aside, my gear is no match: I am soaked.\nWater penetrates my jacket (BMW Rallye 2 Pro), my shell (North Face), my heated vest, and ends up wetting my shirt. My gloves, which are too short, also let water in. I’ll need to adjust and find solutions, as this worries me for the northern portion of the adventure. For the first time, I truly wonder what I’m doing here.\nAn old friend, Nigel, whom I’ll run into in Calgary at the end of the trip, is originally from Winnipeg and suggested I stay with his mother, Ivy.\nWinnipeg isn\u0026rsquo;t a tourist destination per se, but it is significant to me. In 1985, I spent the summer here at the University of Manitoba for English immersion. It was my first plane trip and my first journey without my parents. I wanted to see the city again for those memories.\nIvy, originally from Jamaica, welcomes me like a king. Such kindness! It’s not simple: I’m soaked and she has prepared an elaborate meal. Yet, I hesitate: Winnipeg in the rain doesn\u0026rsquo;t thrill me, and if I stay, I want to explore the city and have dinner downtown.\nI go down to the basement to call Nadine. She is so excited she tells me four things at once. We are already discussing changing her flight plans to meet me in Vancouver instead of Prince Rupert. If the rest of the journey is like these past few days, she won\u0026rsquo;t enjoy the cold and rain between Prince Rupert and Vancouver.\nAfter the call, I go back to talk with Ivy and finally decide to stay, as the sky is miraculously starting to clear.\nI head to the University of Manitoba. Incredible: I remember nothing! Yet, the buildings are superb and historic. The eyes of a 16-year-old clearly don\u0026rsquo;t see the same things as those of a 40-year-old man.\n2008-07-11-winnipeg-46.jpg\nI then pass through downtown. Nothing special, but the good weather settles in for good, confirming my decision to spend the evening here.\nBack at Ivy’s, I take my luggage apart again. My system isn\u0026rsquo;t right; I’m losing too much time loading and unloading. I’ll have to rethink my strategy. For lunch, the smell of Ivy’s Jamaican chicken is irresistible. Nigel was right: it’s delicious!\nLater, I head back downtown. I spot four motorcycles parked on a sidewalk. I decide to mimic them to avoid the parking meters. I lock everything, set the alarm, and get ready to visit when a security guard stops me: it’s a reserved parking area for Canada Post.\nFortunately, he is friendly. Seeing where I’m from, we chat for 30 minutes. Finally, he lets me park there and even offers to watch my bike!\nThe tour can begin. Winnipeg reminds me of a mix of Denver and Chicago, in a smaller format. What strikes me most is the poverty and panhandling, particularly among the indigenous population downtown. That, I remembered.\nI quickly visit The Forks, Saint-Boniface, and the Exchange District. The city seems a bit quiet, perhaps because I’m used to the excitement of Montreal or cities like Barcelona.\nFortunately, Irish Pubs are the same everywhere! After two beers, the city comes to life a bit more. I move on to the neighbor, \u0026ldquo;Oui Bistro.\u0026rdquo; I am pleasantly surprised by the meal and the atmosphere. The wine is very much appreciated after these few days on the road. A small cultural note: my steak-frites was served with ketchup\u0026hellip; definitely, I am no longer in Montreal!\nIt’s past midnight when I get back to Ivy’s. Tomorrow will be a big day: I’m aiming for Edmonton. Over 1,300 km and 13 hours of driving\u0026hellip; We’ll see if I make it!\n","date":"11 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/03_day-3-ontario-end/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A grueling crossing under an icy deluge toward Manitoba, followed by a nostalgic stopover in Winnipeg and a warm welcome.","title":"Day 3: Ontario, the End (Finally!)","type":"post"},{"content":"06:15 Winnipeg (MB)\n19:30 Edmonton (AB) 1400 km\nThe Adventure starts early! Alarm set for 05:50. Since everything is ready on the bike (prepped the night before!), I head out a few minutes later and attack the road with determination. Surprise: my first gravel road! Long live GPS\u0026hellip; my Garmin Zumo 550 takes me through an improbable little side road. After that, I tackle Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta.\nYesterday was rain; today, it’s wind! And a light drizzle to spice things up. When I say wind, I mean violent 80 km/h gusts: the bike wobbles constantly, my head wants to fly off, and to complete the recipe, it’s a lovely 12°C.\nAfter five hours of suffering (literally), I am frozen, exhausted, and yes, I wonder what the hell I’m doing alone in the middle of Saskatchewan when I could be with my girlfriend, feet in the warm water of a lake in Quebec!\nAfter an internet break at a gas station, I put on my North Face Windstopper jacket and head back into hell. I realize I have every possible layer on my back. If I’m still cold, I’m out of solutions:\nTechnical camisole and long-sleeved shirt Widder heated vest with sleeves North Face shell North Face Windstopper BMW Rallye 2 Pro Fortunately, with all these layers, I’m no longer cold. Additionally, the clouds dissipate, the wind drops a bit, and I can finally catch my breath. The Saskatchewan plains can truly be brutal!\nAfter 10 hours on the road, Alberta finally arrives, and the good weather along with it!\nIt would be a lie to say this was an easy or even pleasant day. There were some very dark moments. I even find myself chasing birds on the side of the road with my horn; surprisingly, it changes my focus and passes the time. I also perform acrobatics on the bike to relieve my legs and rear end.\nI deeply regret not buying a high-performance aftermarket seat. I acquired an AirHawk 2 cushion which helps a little, but the stock seat on my GS is simply not designed for such long journeys. The ride becomes uncomfortable, even painful.\nFinally, I arrive in Edmonton at a hotel booked online for $65. Not bad (it would end up being my cheapest hotel in Canada!). Obviously, no time to rest—it’s Saturday night, after all. I empty the bike again: tires, clothes, wet camping gear. One shower and hop, the downtown area is calling!\nTo my great surprise, there is no surprise here. I expected a lot, but Edmonton (\u0026ldquo;Ed-monotone\u0026rdquo; as some like to say) is totally dead. The streets are empty. It’s a typically American downtown where pickups and dragsters share the road. The only lively avenue is Whyte Ave, in the Old Strathcona district. After walking up and down, I end up at The Keg for dinner and a glass of wine. That says it all!\n","date":"12 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/04_day-4-the-prairies/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"An epic 1,400 km trek across Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta, battling violent winds and biting cold before reaching Edmonton.","title":"Day 4: The Prairies","type":"post"},{"content":"No driving today!\nWoke up late, well-rested. I’m taking the opportunity to visit the West Edmonton Mall, the largest indoor shopping center in the world and, above all, the Mecca of Americanized capitalist society.\nNext, I head to Mountain Equipment Co-op to hunt for a few outdoor items. What a great shop and a wonderful atmosphere! I then head toward downtown. Aside from a small food festival, it is literally dead. However, the long walk along the riverbank is pleasant. I end up doing some grocery shopping, wondering exactly where I’m going to pack all this tomorrow morning!\nI return to the hotel to make a few calls because tomorrow, the real Adventure begins and, with it, the cellular blackout!\nA quick imaginary candlelit dinner in Kinsman Park, one-on-one—or rather, ear-to-ear—with Nadine and Jean (a friend who also just bought a GS!). Then, back to the hotel to prep the machine for an early departure!\n","date":"13 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/05_day-5-edmonton/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A well-deserved rest day in Edmonton to visit the famous mall, restock supplies, and prep gear before the start of the cellular blackout.","title":"Day 5: Edmonton","type":"post"},{"content":"06:30 Edmonton (AB)\n19:30 Tetsa River Campground (100 km north of Fort Nelson, BC) 1150 km\nI really wasn\u0026rsquo;t in top shape this morning. 06:00 is early for someone like me who is not a morning person at all, but I realize that you have to leave very early to cover long distances—even if it\u0026rsquo;s possible to ride late since the sun barely sets at this latitude.\nThe road was long and monotonous, especially in Alberta. Entering British Columbia brought a bit of variety to the landscape, and arriving in Fort Nelson coincided with the long-awaited appearance of the Rockies!\nWeather: cold, obviously. Sporadic rain and 9 degrees!\nI love the freedom that a motorcycle provides compared to a car, but I am wearing so many layers that the weight of my clothes hinders my movements. So much for freedom! At one point, I even had the hood of my shell on my head, UNDER my helmet! Quite a sight.\nThe towns I passed through are like mushrooms that sprouted from the region\u0026rsquo;s oil boom. It’s unfortunate to gaze at this beautiful nature while very clearly smelling the scent of the refineries.\n18:00: My first wild bear! So cool! One tourist photo and hop, I leave him alone.\nI’m ending the day in a regional campground. Site #1: quiet, isolated, clean, and for only $14! The only problem remains the intermittent rain and the cold. And when the rain stops, the mosquitoes launch their attack! Fortunately, my insect repellent (Watson) is, to my great surprise, very effective.\nBetween two showers, I set up the tent. When it rains too hard, I have no choice but to take refuge under the trees. I somehow manage to cook my pasta arrabbiata.\n23:00, time for bed. It’s not easy because it is still so bright out!\n","date":"14 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/06_day-6-british-columbia/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Entering British Columbia marks the beginning of the Rockies and my first encounter with a wild bear, despite persistent cold and voracious mosquitoes.","title":"Day 6: British Columbia","type":"post"},{"content":"07:00 Tetsa River Campground (BC)\n16:00 Whitehorse (YK) 861 km\nA superb day of motorcycling despite a meager 4°C in the morning, but the situation improved a bit later on. Finally, the real Rockies! Shortly after leaving the campground, the landscape finally became what I expected of Western Canada: mountains, lakes, and wild animals (deer, bears, bison, caribou). The road is splendid and the weather clement. Passing through Stone Mountain Provincial Park and arriving on the Alaska Highway made this the best day to date. I feel I am getting closer to my goals; I am finally where I wanted to be.\nI arrive in Whitehorse around 16:00. After a quick reconnaissance tour and a visit to the tourist information center to find a hotel ($80), I head to Honda. On the agenda: an oil change and fitting new tires (TKC80s for the Dempster Highway) for $125.\nBy 18:00, I am already back at the hotel! Incredible. I spent days planning this important stage of the trip and the result is there: I knew exactly where to go and didn\u0026rsquo;t waste time searching or circling around. Long live planning and GPS!\nThis allows me to enjoy the late afternoon having a few beers with two bikers heading north on BMWs (an RT from Ohio and an 1100GS from Alberta).\nAn eventful evening watching street fights. The downtown area is, once again, rather deserted, but it is Tuesday after all.\nI am surprised to cross paths with so many Quebecers. The service manager at Honda is actually from Montreal. He informs me that salaries here are very attractive and that 20% of the population of Whitehorse is originally from Quebec. I didn\u0026rsquo;t expect that and, to be frank, I still don\u0026rsquo;t understand what pushes people to settle here permanently.\nI head back to the hotel around 23:00 to prepare the bike for the straight shot toward Inuvik.\nLesson of the day: never leave the bear spray with your clothes! Oof, it doesn\u0026rsquo;t smell good and, above all, it burns!\n","date":"15 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/07_day-7-yukon/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A spectacular day through the Rockies into the Yukon, featuring wildlife encounters, motorcycle maintenance in Whitehorse, and a memorable lesson about cayenne pepper.","title":"Day 7: Yukon","type":"post"},{"content":"07:30 Whitehorse\n12:30 Entrance of the Dempster Highway\n23:30 (00:30 local time) Inuvik !!!!! 1230 km\nToday was the most difficult day of motorcycling of my life.\nNothing to report between Whitehorse and Dawson City, aside from a few gravel sections due to construction and some animals that are as surprising as ever! I take the opportunity to follow a group of GS riders, but I soon overtake them to continue alone, as their pace was a bit too slow.\nStarted this long-awaited road (Dempster Highway) around 12:30, after gassing up at $1.75 a liter!\nThe road is superb. After 5 or 6 km, you ride on well-compacted gravel that allows for maintaining a good speed.\nAfter 40-50 minutes, you cross Tombstone Provincial Park and the landscape is simply breathtaking. It resembles the majestic expanses found in Argentina or Chile. You quickly find yourself in high-mountain conditions, with even a bit of snow in the rivers. However, I am lucky: the weather is perfect with a beautiful 25°C.\nMy hottest day to date is taking place in the Arctic!\nIt is difficult to travel 5 km without stopping to contemplate the horizon stretching as far as the eye can see. Once again, it’s a bit like South America, but much greener.\nThere are very few cars. I sometimes go an hour without passing anyone. It’s pleasant, but frightening at the same time: if I have a breakdown or an accident, I am truly alone. I can ride comfortably at 100 km/h, but I remain very vigilant for obvious reasons.\nAll that was about to change\u0026hellip; rapidly.\nIn northern Yukon, just before entering the Northwest Territories, the road deteriorates at lightning speed. I come very close to losing control in thick, soft gravel that takes me by surprise. What a horrific feeling.\nA bit later, I cross the limits of the Arctic Circle. Tourist photo click and move on, as it’s starting to get late.\nFatigue is evident. I must stay 100% focused to spot the traps in the road, which is increasingly frequent since I have to ride standing up very often.\nTwo ferries in one hour. Past Fort McPherson, the road deteriorates to the point where my speed drops considerably. I am constantly standing and on high alert. If I fall here, I prefer not to imagine the consequences. I skirt catastrophe five or six times, but I manage to keep things under control.\nThe last 300 kilometers are done standing up, at 50-60 km/h. A true test of endurance, determination, and riding skill.\nThe mountainous landscape gives way to tundra. It is late and I have to work hard to keep the bike on the road. A loss of control here is serious because the road is built on permafrost: a base of 3 or 4 meters of gravel had to be erected over the ground. If I leave the pavement, I literally fall 4 meters down!\nI get passed by a few trucks kicking up thick dust. If a car were following them, the driver would never see me! Fortunately, it is late and I am almost alone.\n23:30, 16 hours later: here I am at last in Inuvik! Safe and sound.\nI quickly tour the village and head to the campground located 2 km before the town entrance. I’m going to have my best night’s sleep there to date, despite the permanent daylight.\nI will stay here for two days because I am not hitting the road tomorrow; I am too exhausted. Plus, I get a free night at the campground since I arrived after midnight!\nThis road was quite an experience and a hell of a test. It’s a good thing I had installed TKC80 (off-road) tires on the bike. The return trip will be different: I intend to take my time, take photos, and ride slower\u0026hellip; at least, that’s what I thought!\nThe bike is so dirty that as soon as I touch it, I get soiled. I’ll go wash it tomorrow, as my clothes are still contaminated with bear repellent!\n","date":"16 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/08_day-8-the-dempster-highway/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The ultimate test: 16 grueling hours and 1,230 km on the road to reach Inuvik, between grandiose Arctic landscapes and perilous gravel sections.","title":"Day 8: Dempster Highway (NWT)","type":"post"},{"content":"Inuvik (NWT)\nWoke up: 10:00 AM!!! Oof, that feels good!\nThe campground is simple but clean, quiet, and affordable ($14 for two nights!). I head over to the other (municipal) campground to do my laundry. The village is small and typical. Nothing extravagant here, but everything is adapted for tourism, starting with the tourist information center which is a gold mine. The people there are very friendly.\nI then tour the town on foot. Surprisingly, the shops offer some nice things and the supermarket has a good selection, despite prices being inflated by 30 to 40%. I stop by Moe’s to buy a sticker, then to City Hall where they are giving out souvenir pins for Inuvik\u0026rsquo;s 50th anniversary.\nThe village has nothing special in itself, other than its location. However, it represents a fine example of courage and determination given its northern context. At the municipal library, I attend a book launch about the town\u0026rsquo;s history by Mr. Dick Hill. He is accompanied by a legendary Inuit man, an explorer with whom he discusses climate change, the evolution of the village, and the adaptation of First Nations. It is fascinating. I even allow myself an exchange with the author and his acolyte about the reasons for my journey. Naturally, I can\u0026rsquo;t resist the urge to buy the book.\nNext, I go to visit the officers of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police to see a bit how justice works here. I am very well received by an officer who gives me a tour of the premises. Strangely, she is here by choice and aspires to work in even more remote regions! She frequently has to travel by plane to the High Arctic for temporary assignments or criminal investigations.\nStriking fact: by mid-July, the register already counts 1,200 detainees, while the population of Inuvik is about 4,000 people. Although this doesn\u0026rsquo;t mean that a quarter of the population has been arrested, this figure reveals an obvious problem with alcoholism within the community.\nAfterward, I take the motorcycle to the end of the road, literally! The path stretches for 8 km north of the village. It is in very poor condition and there is nothing special to see, but I can say that I reached the northernmost point accessible by vehicle in the country!\nWhat an emotional moment! That’s well worth a beer. I head to Shiver’s, a surprising bar located in a hotel on the main street. It’s a modern and clean lounge, perhaps a bit too much for my tourist budget ($10 a beer!). I decide to stop by the liquor store to pick up a bottle of wine and have dinner at the campground despite it being 10 degrees. Surprisingly, the wine selection is excellent and I find a good bottle from Argentina at a reasonable price.\n","date":"17 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/09_day-9-inuvik/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A day of rest and cultural discovery in Inuvik, including historic meetings at the library, a visit to the RCMP, and reaching the northernmost point of the road.","title":"Day 9: Inuvik","type":"post"},{"content":"Inuvik (NWT) 08:30 – Eagle Plains (YK) 17:30 | 366 km\nThe most difficult and dangerous day of the trip.\nThe night turns out to be cold, and I barely sleep. At the start of the journey, I decided to travel light, which meant making compromises on camping gear—specifically the sleeping bag. To save space, I took an ultra-compact model rated for summer temperatures (+7°C). I realize my mistake now: the nights are miserable, and the cold prevents me from recovering.\nI wake up exhausted, with no idea what lies ahead. It rained lightly yesterday and likely all through the night. I initially welcome this moisture, thinking it will keep the dust down from the passing trucks. I leave Inuvik heading south. I admit I’ve had enough of the cold and wind; I’m starting to dream of warmth and comfort.\nFrom the start, I remain cautious. The road seems manageable at first, but everything falls apart after 100 km.\nAfter Fort McPherson, the surface becomes extremely slippery. On the second ferry, an attendant warns me that the road is badly deteriorated further south. I naively tell myself it can\u0026rsquo;t be worse than what I\u0026rsquo;ve already crossed. Wrong answer.\nThe mixture of gravel, rain, and cold creates a viscous, sticky mud. It\u0026rsquo;s like riding on slush with a 400 kg machine equipped with summer tires. The inevitable happens: a fall.\nFortunately, I was moving slowly. But I find myself covered in thick mud. Righting the bike is a colossal physical feat because the ground is slick and unstable. I have to unload all my luggage into the mud to lighten the load. I feel terribly alone in the world. By some miracle, I manage to set off again, very slowly.\nDiscouragement sets in. Should I turn back? No, I want to get out of this hell as quickly as possible, and I know the road improves in the Yukon. I push on, but 500 meters later, I lose concentration while passing a car and fall again. This time, it\u0026rsquo;s impossible to lift it alone. I am too exhausted.\nAfter an hour of waiting in the rain, a car stops. The passengers help me get the bike back upright in seconds. I thank them, feeling embarrassed to see their clean shoes now ruined by the mud. I reload everything and set off\u0026hellip; only to fall a third time 200 meters later.\nMorale is at its lowest. There is nowhere to sit; everything is soaked and soft. The presence of grizzlies in the area makes camping on the spot out of the question. My goal is now clear: reach Eagle Plains, 160 km away, without falling again.\nThe technique is simple: as soon as the color of the road changes, I slow to less than 5 km/h, feet on the ground to stabilize the machine. I bless my BMW for its very short \u0026ldquo;Enduro\u0026rdquo; first gear and my TKC80 tires that bite into the molasses.\nI don\u0026rsquo;t pass a single other motorcycle. That is a telltale sign.\nAround 17:30, I finally spot the refuge at Eagle Plains. What a relief! Upon arrival, a group of American bikers welcomes me: the motorists who helped me had alerted them to my presence. The guys at the garage hose me and the bike down to remove the worst of the muddy crust. The mud had baked so much on the exhaust pipes that the chrome turned orange.\nI take a room for $125. In survival mode, the price no longer matters. A hot shower, a quick call to Nadine to reassure her without scaring her, and I join the other travelers at the bar.\nI learn that the five bikers on GS models arrived the day before on a government truck: they couldn\u0026rsquo;t make it through by road. One of them even ended up 4 meters down in the tundra. These are experts over 50 years old, and they are unanimous: these are the worst conditions they have seen in their lives. And I came through after them, with an extra day of rain.\nTomorrow, I will have to decide whether to continue south. This day will remain etched in my memory, even if I would have gladly done without it.\n","date":"18 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/10_day-10-surviving-the-artic/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The most perilous day of the trip: an exhausting struggle against the freezing mud of the Dempster Highway, marked by several falls and a determination put to the ultimate test.","title":"Day 10: Arctic Survival","type":"post"},{"content":"09:30 Eagle’s Plain\n14:30 End of the Dempster Highway\n15:00 Dawson City\n20:00 Campground (1 hour before Whitehorse) | 810 km\nIt’s incredible how a good night\u0026rsquo;s sleep restores your energy.\nQuickly, I head out and note that the weather is much calmer. There are clouds, but they are high up, and the winds are light, which is generally a good sign.\nSome travelers are still hesitating about heading up to Inuvik and ask for my opinion. I understand their desire to go—it’s the trip of a lifetime for many—but safety comes first. Personally, I wouldn\u0026rsquo;t go, especially since you have to come back and the forecast remains poor for the coming days. But humans need to see and feel for themselves to understand reality; I wish them luck.\nI quickly assess that the situation is much better than yesterday. I’m informed that this weather window will only last a day before the showers return. The decision is made: I want out of this hell! I know it will be difficult, but compared to yesterday, it’s a summer day. A bit of mist follows me, but nothing worrying.\nThe members of GSRiders.us seem hesitant to leave. They will make their decision later. They ask me to inform them of the conditions along the way, but that will be impossible due to the lack of network.\nI am happy to be traveling solo. Decisions are simpler. History will prove me right: the group will leave too late and get caught by the bad weather. One of the members will suffer a severe loss of control, several fractures, and will have to be evacuated by helicopter.\nI start the journey well. The road is much more stable than yesterday, and I manage to maintain a good speed most of the time. However, I remain vigilant regarding the muddy sections. The big GS is impossible to steer on this type of ground; I stop before every puddle to venture through cautiously.\nHalfway through, I pass a cyclist from Calgary heading up toward Inuvik\u0026hellip; Now there’s a real tough guy! The road is deserted. I rarely pass vehicles and overtake a first motorcycle: an old BMW R100 from the 80s ridden by a German couple. Incredible!\nThere is only one bridge on this road, and it was a pleasure to cross it. Afterward, the conditions improve to the point where I can ride at 100 km/h! What a joy. I stay 100% focused to sniff out danger and perceive changes in the gravel\u0026rsquo;s color, especially when it turns black or shiny. Despite the improvement, I still often have to \u0026ldquo;save the day\u0026rdquo; to avoid a fall. It’s normal to push the machine a bit, as the road is endless. The scenery is superb, and despite the risks, I tell myself it’s truly worth it.\nAfter 300 km, the road deteriorates again, and I have to slow down seriously for 50 km. But around 14:15, I look at my GPS: only 12 km left! An immense relief washes over me, sweeping away all the trials of the last few days. That\u0026rsquo;s it, I have conquered the Dempster Highway!\nFunny fact: a few kilometers from the exit, I pass a couple heading onto the road in a buggy, with two horses and cowboy hats!\nAs nothing is ever simple in this part of the country, the last 10 kilometers are grueling, and I have to ride at a crawl. But at 14:30, I experience one of the most beautiful moments of the trip: asphalt! What bliss, what smoothness. What a beautiful invention bitumen is!\nAfter calling Nadine, I head toward Dawson City, 30 km to the west. A music festival is taking place there. I thought the village would remain quiet given its isolation, but I was wrong: it is overflowing with partygoers and the muddy streets are packed. At the tourist office, a lady in period costume regretfully informs me that everything is full. She gives me the coordinates of a provincial campground located\u0026hellip; 500 km away, near Whitehorse! I have to summon my courage once again. I wash the bike, take a few photos, and set off. No choice.\n","date":"19 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/11_day-11-surviving-the-artic-end/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The relief of leaving the muddy hell of the Dempster Highway to find asphalt again, followed by an unplanned trek south after finding Dawson City packed.","title":"Day 11: Arctic Survival, the Conclusion","type":"post"},{"content":"06:30 Campground (Twin Lakes, 120 km west of Whitehorse)\n18:30 Stewart (BC) 1160 km\nAnother long and difficult day of motorcycling.\nThe morning is crisp (6°C). No rain at the start, but my entry into British Columbia is celebrated by heavy showers accompanied by a biting cold.\nAfter a few hours of monotonous riding, I turn onto the Cassiar Highway. Despite the fatigue washing over me, I can’t help but appreciate this superb road lost in the forests of western BC. It is winding, and the appearance of high mountains adds to the beauty. But the remaining 600 km seem daunting, as I have just finished 600 others! The distances here are massive, and there aren\u0026rsquo;t really any points of interest aside from a generic village every 200 km.\nThere are two remaining gravel sections of 20 or 30 km each. Despite the intense practice of the last few days, they are very difficult to tackle. It\u0026rsquo;s like I have a mental block—a pure and simple apprehension of gravel on a motorcycle! The road has little traffic, save for big trucks and RVs.\nAh, the RVs (recreational vehicles). I still have a lot of trouble understanding what pushes people to travel with their house and their car towed behind. What kind of insecurity do these people suffer from to have to bring everything they own just to get a change of scenery? Especially since the RVs here are practically buses\u0026hellip; for two people! And often, they tow a large SUV or a motorcycle behind. Only in America! What a waste.\nFortunately, the motorcycle allows me to overtake and weave through quickly despite the many curves and slopes. I finally arrive on the road to Stewart where I pass the superb Bear Glacier. A few tourist photos and I continue toward the town.\nActually, \u0026ldquo;village\u0026rdquo; is more appropriate to describe Stewart. \u0026ldquo;Ghost town\u0026rdquo; would be even more accurate! Everything seems to have stopped 100 years ago here. I am looking for the tourist information office when I stumble upon a pressure car wash. What a joy to wash the machine as well as my clothes! The owner is very friendly; he explains that there are only two hotels in the village and strongly recommends Ripley’s.\nWhat a lovely surprise. I am welcomed with open arms into a superb, typical little oasis decorated with antiques. A charming and very affordable place! While getting my room keys, I run into three Belgians. I have a little \u0026ldquo;jasette\u0026rdquo; with them (a great Quebec expression for a chat!) which ends up at the hotel restaurant, Ripley’s Café, over a few good bottles of wine and a high-quality meal. The place is magnificently decorated.\nWe exchange ideas on fascinating topics. I note once again that, as a francophone Quebecer, I have much more in common with Europeans than with English-speaking Americans or Canadians.\nA superb evening that will certainly give me the strength to find the sun (I hope!) tomorrow. I realize that the company and the conversations have done me a world of good, as I had accumulated a lot of \u0026ldquo;solitude points\u0026rdquo; these past few days.\n","date":"20 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/12_day-12-cassiar-highway/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A long journey on the winding Cassiar Highway through the mountains of British Columbia, ending in the historic and friendly charm of Stewart.","title":"Day 12: Cassiar Highway","type":"post"},{"content":"08:30 to 09:30 Alaska\n09:30 Stewart (BC)\n18:00 Prince George (BC) | 700 km\nWoke up at 08:30 without an alarm! I decide to make a quick jump over to Alaska.\nIt’s a peculiar feeling; it’s not every day you can say something like that! Naturally, as always, everything takes place in the rain. The village of Hyder (AK) is barely five minutes from Stewart. There is no customs office for entry into the United States, but the place seems to be in total decay. There\u0026rsquo;s nothing to see here, except for the Salmon Glacier which, technically, is located in British Columbia, but can only be accessed through Alaska. I decide to head there despite the 25 km of gravel\u0026hellip; again!\nUnfortunately, the fog spoils the view a bit, but I can still see the superb glacier looming in the distance. It is very impressive.\nI then return to my own country. This time, I have to go through a border post where Canadian customs officers ask me all sorts of questions: \u0026ldquo;Do you have a weapon?\u0026rdquo;, \u0026ldquo;How long were you in the USA?\u0026rdquo;, \u0026ldquo;Are you bringing back any goods?\u0026rdquo;. I quickly reassure them: no AK-47s or grenades.\nI stop for breakfast at the village bakery. The place surprises me with the quality of its products and the authenticity of the people. With a full stomach (an apple turnover AND a bun!), I tackle the day\u0026rsquo;s work: eight hours of driving through the center of the province. My goal is modest: get to Prince George, a mandatory stop given the road layout of this region.\nThe road is beautiful. I feel myself slowly returning to civilization. Villages (often indigenous reserves) are more frequent and traffic is increasing. I have to handle the machine a bit more aggressively to overtake, but on a motorcycle, it’s child\u0026rsquo;s play. Farms and houses now decorate the landscape, something I haven\u0026rsquo;t seen in ages.\nPassing through Smithers, I come across a Harley-Davidson dealer. The temptation is too strong: I stop to ask if it\u0026rsquo;s possible to change my tires. I’m still riding on my off-road tires, which greatly affects the smoothness of the ride and traction on asphalt.\nTo save money, I decide to remove the wheels myself outside. Cost: $65. Then, off to the local post office to ship my book on Inuvik and my front tire to my mother in Quebec (the rear is too worn to keep).\nIn less than an hour, I am free! No more tires to lug around on the bike. The relief and happiness of finding such a smooth ride again are hard to describe. Immediate consequence: an increase in comfort and, above all, pace!\nAround 18:00, I arrive in Prince George. Or should I say, the ghost town of Prince George. The downtown area is literally empty, with no pedestrians and very few cars. I take a room in a motel and head off to give the bike a much-needed wash. I end the day with dinner at The Keg (my new landmark!) since nothing else catches my eye in this deserted city.\n","date":"21 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/13_day-13-a-few-minutes-in-alaska/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A quick foray into Alaska to admire a glacier, followed by a gradual return to civilization marked by a liberating tire change.","title":"Day 13: A Few Minutes in Alaska!","type":"post"},{"content":"09:00 Prince George (BC)\n16:30 Kelowna (BC) 700 km\nA late wake-up since I don\u0026rsquo;t anticipate a very long day on the road. I am noticing that the fatigue of the trip is quietly accumulating. Since I still have a month left, I need to pace myself, especially with my girlfriend arriving soon!\nThe drive is relatively mundane. It is surprising to see the similarities between the local landscape and that of Quebec in this part of British Columbia—except, of course, for the quality of the pavement! The day begins in the chill (10°C), but after a few hours, a surprising phenomenon occurs.\nAround Clinton (BC), I enter the Okanagan Valley and the temperature jumps from 15°C to 35°C in just 10 minutes! I transition from lush forest to desert mountains, dry grass, and lifeless trees. I pull over on the side of Route 97C to call my girlfriend. People look at me strangely with my four layers and especially my heated vest! I take the opportunity to strip off a few layers before heading out again.\nThe 97C is a superb back-country road: winding, bordered by mountains and rivers. I pass through the town of Merritt (BC), which has the feel of the Old West.\nFinally, in the late afternoon, I reach Kelowna.\nThe city\u0026hellip;\nThe traffic, the intense heat, and the sudden change of scenery dampen my arrival a bit. It is difficult to find oneself in a large urban area after being used to wide-open spaces for several weeks. It’s a transition that feels too fast.\nThe hotels are overpriced. I go to the campground suggested by the tourist office, but the site leaves much to be desired. I tour the downtown area and resign myself to taking a room at the Travelodge for $150.\nThe evening is difficult and certainly marks the lowest point of the trip. I am seriously considering returning to Montreal. I call Nadine to explain my state of mind, but there isn\u0026rsquo;t much she can do from a distance. I think the urban shock was hard to absorb, as was the heat, which is unbearable on a motorcycle without air conditioning. I already miss my crisp, cool northern mornings!\nI decide to make some pasta with my stove in the park across from the hotel, overlooking Lake Okanagan, accompanied by a bottle of local wine. I sink into deep reflection.\nI then make the firm decision to stay, but to return toward the mountains in Whistler to find nature and more reasonably priced accommodations (long live camping!). This moment of solitude has been beneficial. It would have been unacceptable to go home immediately after coming so far; I would have missed too many beautiful things and regretted it bitterly.\nI have also made peace with the financial aspect. I will far exceed the initial budget, but I’ve decided to stop counting every penny while remaining reasonable. I\u0026rsquo;ll settle the accounts back home.\nI almost forgot: at 9:00 PM, it started to rain. In Kelowna, where it hadn\u0026rsquo;t rained for weeks!\n","date":"22 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/14_day-14-kelowna-questions/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A thermal and urban shock in Kelowna triggers a deep questioning of the journey’s continuation, caught between sweltering heat and nostalgia for the vast northern spaces.","title":"Day 14: Kelowna, the Second Guessing","type":"post"},{"content":"09:00 Kelowna 13:00 Vancouver 400 km\nA short day of driving ahead. It’s incredible how hundreds of kilometers seem like nothing to me now. The road is winding and high up, but it is a major four-lane highway. I’m cruising at 130-140 km/h very comfortably since the traffic is light.\nNow that I\u0026rsquo;m back in civilization, I have to deal with one of our great inventions: traffic jams! While stuck for a few minutes, I take the opportunity to check my Fido network signal. What a joy—I have a signal! Bluetooth connection to the GPS and the helmet, and suddenly I’m on the line chatting with my girlfriend and my friends. What a beautiful little thing the cell phone is!\nMy final destination is Whistler, but I decide to make a quick stop in Vancouver at MEC to buy stove fuel. The Mountain Equipment Co-op store is huge and the selection is much more elaborate than in Montreal. What a joy to be on a motorcycle: there’s no room to buy anything else—long live forced savings!\nNext, a stop at the BMW Motorrad dealership. I’m well received. We prepare my appointment for next week by ordering the necessary parts (torn seat), and I take the opportunity to have the bulb in my headlight replaced.\nI’m hesitant to leave the city because the weather is beautiful and, frankly, the Vancouver vibes are good. I call a few mid-range hotels that are asking for $100, but I suddenly think of a contact from my friend Nigel who works at the Fairmont Hotel. Initially, she tells me it\u0026rsquo;s full but asks me to call back a little later to check for cancellations.\nI slowly head toward the downtown core, which is superb and vibrant. Finally, she finds me a room for two nights at the Fairmont Hotel! A few minutes later, I meet this very friendly person who welcomes me as if she’s known me forever. Since the room isn\u0026rsquo;t ready, she introduces me to the staff and gives me a voucher for a drink at the hotel bar. It was funny to see all these people in suits looking at me: the Quebec tourist in his Rallye 2 Pro suit with his helmet in hand! The beer was particularly cold and succulent.\nThe hotel is simply superb. It is located right in the center, in the most beautiful heritage building in the region (in my opinion). It’s a 1900s construction with gabled green roofing and ornaments. After a few minutes, I discover my room… no words can describe the happiness of being in such a luxurious and comfortable place! I almost went to bed right then and there, but since the weather was nice, there was no question of wasting time. A quick shower and I’m off to tackle Vancouver!\nI first head toward Burrard Street, then toward English Bay where the first fireworks of the season are taking place. The park is packed. Note: there are so many police officers that I wonder if the entire Vancouver force is present. It is obvious that alcohol is not permitted, and the enforcement of this ban is remarkable.\nThere are three obvious protection zones:\nOn site: a massive presence of law enforcement with aggressive patrols of three-officer teams. At the entrances: sorting of citizens and bike patrols. Upstream: bike police approaching people to check the contents of bags. All this for fireworks! We are far from the celebrations in Montreal where people show up with their coolers, meals, wine, and beer without major issues. Besides being a bit excessive, it takes away some of the charm of the event. Difference in mentality, I imagine there is a historical reason for all this.\nSince it is 20:00 and the fireworks don\u0026rsquo;t start until 22:00, I decide to walk against the crowd back to the hotel to grab a warm piece of clothing. On the way, I pass a superb terrace on the lawn and cannot resist the smell of Italian food. After a good pizza at the \u0026ldquo;garden patio,\u0026rdquo; I head back to the hotel slowly (the wine having slowed me down a bit) and come across an IGA right downtown.\nThe buzzword here is Organic… the first floor is actually reserved for these types of products. I stock up on a few supplies and continue my way to the Fairmont.\nOnce again, the luxury of my room is a culture shock. I lie down on the bed for a bit and watch TV on the plasma screen… I think the fireworks will have to wait for another time! ZZZ ZZZ!\n","date":"23 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/15_day-15-vancouver/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A radical transition from mountain highways to urban luxury in Vancouver, moving from wilderness camping to the five-star comfort of the Fairmont Hotel.","title":"Day 15: Vancouver","type":"post"},{"content":"Vancouver\nToday will be a day without the motorcycle! Breakfast in the room, because it is very difficult for me to leave this bed—it\u0026rsquo;s just so cozy and comfortable.\nIt’s a day of walking under the guise of the perfect tourist: downtown, English Bay, Stanley Park, Kitsilano, and Granville Island.\nA quiet evening at Bistrot Bistro and an early bedtime, because tomorrow, we hit the road again!\n","date":"24 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/16_day-16-the-tourist/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A well-deserved break in Vancouver to explore the city on foot, from Stanley Park to Granville Island, away from the noise of the motorcycle.","title":"Day 16: The Tourist","type":"post"},{"content":"12:00 Vancouver 15:00 Peters Creek Campground (BC) on the Sunshine Coast\nI leave Vancouver relatively late (noon). I initially wanted to go to Whistler, but since there is a major rock festival in Pemberton nearby, I decide to head toward the Sunshine Coast instead to avoid the crowds and probable lodging difficulties. Additionally, a friend and her boyfriend are arriving in the West this morning and will be passing through there. We will try to have a camping evening together!\nI take the ferry at Horseshoe Bay.\nThere is a long waiting line because it is Friday and a long holiday weekend for British Columbia. What a pleasant surprise when the attendant waves me toward the far right, to the only open lane! I learn, to my great satisfaction, that motorcycles are always sent to the front and board the vessel first.\nOnce I arrive in Langdale, I head to the village of Gibsons to pick up supplies for tonight\u0026rsquo;s feast: steaks, beer, wine\u0026hellip; I am ready for a party! I think I really need to see some friends.\nI then zip over to the campground to set up camp and relax a bit. Shortly after, I return to the village to walk around and visit. Gibsons is very pleasant and, as there is a festival going on, the atmosphere is particularly lively and festive.\nOn the way back, I stop at the market to pick up two bags of wood to make a fire and, above all, to cook the superb steaks waiting for me in the cooler. Not easy to transport logs on a motorcycle!\nOf course, nothing is ever simple while traveling: my friends get lost in Vancouver. They are on bicycles (true athletes!) and couldn\u0026rsquo;t find the exit for the Lions Gate Bridge, thus missing the last ferry.\nSniff, sniff\u0026hellip; I\u0026rsquo;ll have to cook my meat and celebrate solo!\n","date":"25 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/17_day-17-sunshine-coast/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A getaway to the Sunshine Coast marked by the privilege of motorcyclists on the ferry and an attempted reunion with friends for a camping feast.","title":"Day 17: Sunshine Coast","type":"post"},{"content":"Ride along the Sunshine Coast | 260 km\nA short ride between Gibsons and Earl’s Cove. I eventually decide not to take the second ferry because I suspect the landscape is relatively similar on the other side. Plus, my friends contact me to confirm they are finally on their way to Gibsons. I join them in the late afternoon, and we prepare our festive meal for the evening.\nIt was a very pleasant evening. We shared stories of our adventures, so different yet so similar at the same time. Isabelle and Sylvain are good friends and ultra-athletic. Last year, they cycled across Europe, and this year, they are tackling the American West Coast, starting with Vancouver and its island. They will eventually cover 2,400 km in 27 days. When I think of the discomforts experienced during my journeys, seeing them work so hard on their bikes puts everything into perspective\u0026hellip; A true example of planning, performance, and courage!\nMy friends really appreciated my cooking skills and especially the superb steaks cooked over the campfire\u0026hellip; especially since they are more used to cold meals and granola bars! (They still talk to me about it today!)\nNaturally, a little rain came to close the evening, followed by a nice camping night that wasn\u0026rsquo;t too chilly.\n","date":"26 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/18_day-18-friends/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Festive reunions on the Sunshine Coast with cycling friends to share a memorable meal around a campfire.","title":"Day 18: Friends!","type":"post"},{"content":"09:30 Langdale (BC) (Ferry)\n17:00 Hampton Campground, Manning Provincial Park (BC)\nA short ride in the rain. I initially planned to go to Whistler, but this time, the weather conditions changed my plans. I decide to head toward the Hope region and Manning Provincial Park, where there seems to be a break in the cloud cover (long live the Internet on the iPhone!).\nThe showers stop a bit after noon.\nI pass through the village of Hope, then cross the provincial park as far as Princeton (BC). The road is pleasant with beautiful mountain passes. The traffic density is relatively high, as it is a very touristy region.\nNote: I have to be very careful of deer, as their presence is ubiquitous here. I narrowly avoid a collision two or three times! Let\u0026rsquo;s just say it wakes you up, especially since on a motorcycle, that kind of contact is unforgiving.\nI then stop at the Hampton campground where I relax and prepare for my mountain expedition planned for tomorrow.\n","date":"27 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/19_day-19-manning-provincial-park/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A rainy journey east to reach Manning Park, featuring winding mountain roads and impromptu encounters with the local wildlife.","title":"Day 19: Manning Provincial Park","type":"post"},{"content":"08:00 Hampton Campground (BC)\n09:00 Skagit Valley Provincial Park (BC)\n18:00 Vancouver (BC) | 300 km\nDuring my pass through the previous day, I had stopped at a rest area in Manning Provincial Park where several hiking trails began. I had been impressed by the presence of trees that were 500 or 600 years old.\nSo, I returned there today to climb Silverdaisy Mountain.\nIt is a beautiful mountain, very wild. The climb is quite difficult and constant. At the trailhead, there is a small sign, similar to the \u0026ldquo;Adopt-a-Highway\u0026rdquo; signs on freeways, except here the inscription says \u0026ldquo;Adopt-a-Trail\u0026rdquo; in the name of Sev Heiberg.\nAt first, I find it a bit silly. In the solitude of the walk, I catch myself thinking about it and, above all, finding the idea totally useless: who would want to adopt a trail just to see their name displayed at the start of the path?\nThe walk is demanding because the slope is steep. The mountain is deserted, which increases the chances of crossing paths with bears or grizzlies—a very real risk in Western Canada. I am, in fact, carrying bear spray and a small bell that drives me crazy, but it announces my presence so as not to surprise an animal.\nAfter three hours of climbing, around a sharp bend in a steep passage, I get the fright of my life. I come literally face to face with an old man, right in the middle of the mountain!\nThe contact is startling: I have been walking for hours without a sign of human presence, focused on bears, and suddenly I jump in front of a man over 80 years old! Even more surprising, he is busy cutting the grass, branches, and trunks obstructing the path.\nAnd yes, I have just run into the man who adopted the trail: Sev Heiberg.\nWe talk for several minutes, and I discover an extraordinary man who makes my initial reflections completely wrong. He is exactly 82 years old and is there, in the middle of a mountain that is difficult to access even for someone young and experienced like me.\nThis meeting gave me a lot of food for thought for my final push toward the summit.\nA little further on, I pass a man in his thirties accompanied by a young girl. They are also working on maintenance. They explain to me that they are there to help Mr. Heiberg popularize this little-known trail. We go back to see Mr. Heiberg because they want a photo with him, which I gladly agree to snap.\nOn my way back down, I run into Mr. Heiberg again, who is tackling a tree trunk that has fallen across the path\u0026hellip; with a hand saw! I offer to finish the job. Three-quarters of it is already done, but I had to work hard to finish sawing the tree. Imagine: he had already cut this trunk in two places. I realize I am dealing with someone extraordinary.\nIn the evening, an Internet search confirms that this man was one of the great explorers and mountaineers of Western Canada, having been the first to climb several high peaks in British Columbia.\nAfter this adventure, I went to Hope to look for a motel, not feeling like camping. Eventually, I contacted a friend living in Vancouver, Cameron, with whom I spent the evening and who kindly hosted me.\n","date":"28 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/20_day-20-skagit-provincial-park/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A memorable hike on Silverdaisy Mountain marked by a chance meeting with Sev Heiberg, a Canadian mountaineering legend, maintaining trails at 82 years old.","title":"Day 20: Skagit Valley Provincial Park","type":"post"},{"content":"Day 21: July 29, 2008\nVancouver (BC)\nA rainy day in Vancouver. I decide to go for a walk in the city anyway, as my room at the Fairmont won\u0026rsquo;t be ready until 4:00 PM. A quiet evening. Tomorrow, my girlfriend arrives by plane, so I’ll have to get up early to pick her up.\nDay 22: July 30, 2008\nVancouver (BC)\nI head to Vancouver International Airport. Nadine is waiting for me there with her luggage. Poor thing, it must be difficult for a woman to travel with only one small backpack! The constraints of a motorcycle are not easy.\nDespite my efforts, I have to resign myself to mailing my camping gear back to Montreal, as it is impossible to pack everything with the current configuration. The only solution would have been to buy a \u0026ldquo;Duffel\u0026rdquo; type waterproof bag to strap over the top box—an option I will reluctantly end up adopting at the end of the trip.\nBack downtown, Nadine still has no idea where we are staying. I had told her not to have high expectations given the high prices here. I drive past the Fairmont and show her the superb building, joking that it would be nice to stay there. Naturally, I get the usual little comment about my \u0026ldquo;judicious\u0026rdquo; hotel choices.\nI walk into the Fairmont, but she doesn\u0026rsquo;t follow me, thinking it’s a bad joke. I convince her to come see the interior. What a surprise for her to see me take the elevator, then pull out a card to open a door! It was a memorable moment that I took great pleasure in giving her.\nDays 23 and 24: July 31 to August 1, 2008\nVancouver (BC)\nWe spend these days playing tourist. The weather remains gloomy, but we still enjoy the city\u0026rsquo;s atmosphere.\nI head to BMW Motorrad for the 20,000 km service. I inquire about a tire change since mine are very worn. What a surprise to learn that the tires I normally pay $150 for in Montreal are sold for $300 here! Total estimated bill for two tires with taxes and installation: nearly $1,000. No thanks. Although the bike is my only means of transport, there are limits to being gouged on profit margins.\nThe maintenance alone costs $500 for an oil change, valve adjustment, and a few checks. I find the costs imposed by the BMW network totally exaggerated. In hindsight, I would have done the oil change myself and waited until my return to Montreal for the rest.\nMy decision to keep my current tires will cause me some worry. The rear treads are almost non-existent, and the front tire has bulges. On dry pavement it\u0026rsquo;s manageable, but under the constant rain, it\u0026rsquo;s concerning. Since there are now two of us on the bike, the wear will accelerate. It’s a risky bet, but I\u0026rsquo;m sticking with it to avoid losing half a day of vacation waiting for a delivery.\nAnother unforeseen event: we were supposed to go to Whistler, but a major rockslide has closed the Sea to Sky highway. We change our plans to revisit the Sunshine Coast, then head to Vancouver Island to visit Tofino and Victoria.\nDay 25: August 2, 2008\nVancouver (BC) – Gibsons (BC)\nDay 26: August 3, 2008\nGibsons (BC) – Comox (BC, via Powell River)\n","date":"3 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/21_day-21-26-vancouver/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Nadine’s arrival in Vancouver marks a transition to a two-person journey, featuring luxurious surprises at the Fairmont and logistical management of BMW maintenance costs.","title":"Days 21 to 26: Vancouver","type":"post"},{"content":"Comox (BC) – Tofino (BC) | 200 km\nThe road between Comox and Tofino is superb, but progress is very slow because of the RVs once again. Some sections are winding and rugged, so these famous \u0026ldquo;turtles\u0026rdquo; (I call them that because the analogy is perfect: they are slow and carry their house on their backs) drive at 30 or 40 km/h, sometimes less. The sector near Kennedy Lake is particularly arduous, with narrow passages and steep climbs. Even though the motorcycle gives me some freedom to overtake, I often have to wait behind long lines of blocked cars.\nThe entrance into Pacific Rim National Park is striking: in just a few minutes, we go from 30°C to 15°C, enveloped in thick ocean mist. This park runs along the sea at one of the westernmost points of the country, where the waves are immense. It is, in fact, one of the only suitable places for surfing in Canada. Tsunami evacuation signs are omnipresent, which is quite a change of scenery to see here at home!\nSeveral people had warned me not to arrive in Tofino without a reservation. However, we were lucky enough to find a small room in a simple but clean and quiet motel right in the center of the village. This allowed us to park the bike and walk around a bit before going to dinner on the superb terrace of the Shelter restaurant on the main street.\n","date":"4 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/22_day27-pacific-rim-highway/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A winding journey across Vancouver Island toward Tofino, through rugged mountains and a spectacular arrival into the ocean mist of the Pacific.","title":"Day 27: Pacific Rim Highway","type":"post"},{"content":"Day 28: August 5, 2008 Tofino (BC) – Victoria (BC) | 316 km\nDay 29: August 6, 2008 Victoria (BC)\nVictoria was one of the most pleasant surprises of the trip. I was captivated by its charm, its century-old architecture, its vineyards, and its harbor. The downtown area buzzes with activity without ever feeling too noisy or overwhelming.\nHowever, it is not a city that seems to encourage motorcycle travel. I had the \u0026ldquo;luck\u0026rdquo; of receiving a ticket for parking at the end of a street, facing a car. I do this everywhere else in the world without any issues, likely because it doesn\u0026rsquo;t bother anyone\u0026hellip; except here.\nWe spent two lovely days playing the perfect tourists, crisscrossing the streets and taking countless photos. It’s certainly nice to slow down the pace every once in a while!\n","date":"6 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/23_day-28-29-victoria/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A charming stopover in Victoria, featuring century-old architecture and vineyards, despite a minor mishap with local parking.","title":"Days 28 and 29 - Victoria","type":"post"},{"content":"Victoria (BC) – Whistler (BC) | 250 km\nWhat a superb road the Sea to Sky Highway is, especially on such a magnificent day! I found myself immobilized for 30 minutes in a traffic jam, which gave me plenty of time to admire rock walls so steep they almost give you vertigo.\nThis road perfectly illustrates what differentiates a trip to Canada from a journey in Europe. The landscape offers breathtaking, winding passes, but it is also obvious that certain sections are precarious, totally at the mercy of the rock\u0026rsquo;s solidity. In Europe, a tunnel would likely have been built a long time ago. In fact, the road was recently closed for nearly a week following a major rockslide that blocked both lanes and destroyed the railway line. It is an impressive place, but certainly one of the riskiest parts of the route.\nAs Vancouver prepares to host the 2010 Winter Olympics, the road is a massive construction site. Near Squamish, we had been at a complete standstill for over 30 minutes when a superb BMW 650GS Dakar passed me on the gravel shoulder. What a wake-up call! Realizing I was also on a motorcycle, I set off in pursuit—even though I was on a much larger machine, loaded with luggage and a passenger!\nThanks to this maneuver, we bypassed several kilometers of stationary cars to reach the only open lane. A good 30 minutes gained! It was honestly quite fun.\n","date":"7 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/24_day-30-sea-to-sky-highway/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A spectacular journey between Victoria and Whistler, featuring steep rock faces and Olympic-sized traffic jams.","title":"Day 30: Sea to Sky Highway","type":"post"},{"content":"2008-08-08 to 2008-08-10 | Whistler (BC)\nWhistler Village is extremely dynamic and youthful. You can feel constant action: mountain biking, competitions, river rafting\u0026hellip; It reminds me a bit of Mont-Tremblant in Quebec, but on a larger scale, though perhaps slightly less traditional. The village is packed with shops, which naturally delights Nadine, whom I quickly lose track of!\nWe decided to spend three nights here, taking advantage of the chance to stay at the Fairmont at a modest price.\nOne of our days was dedicated to the ascent of Mount Whistler. The summit reaches over 2,100 meters, and the trail offers a vertical drop of 1,500 meters requiring more than 8 hours of effort. I recommend this hike to all enthusiasts: the views of glaciers, lakes, and wildlife are simply spectacular. Although the summit is somewhat marred by ski resort infrastructure and tourist crowds, this mountain remains one of the most beautiful places I have climbed in my career as an adventurer.\nA significant little bonus: a superb free gondola ride to return to the village! I rarely allow myself this kind of luxury, as I climb primarily for physical fitness, but such an expedition would normally have required two days. The mechanical descent allowed us to wrap everything up in a single (long) day. However, the pain in our feet and legs was very real; in fact, Nadine and I both had a lot of trouble walking the next day!\nThe other two days were much calmer, as the weather turned out to be rather rainy and gloomy.\n","date":"10 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/25_day-31-33-whistler/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Three days in Whistler between the excitement of the village and the spectacular ascent of Mount Whistler, peaking at 2,100 meters.","title":"Days 31, 32, and 33: Whistler","type":"post"},{"content":"Whistler (BC) – Kelowna | 425 km\nA true discovery: the northern route leading to Kelowna. We took a loop formed by Provincial Route 99 toward Cache Creek, and then the 97C, which is as impressive as ever. The first part of the journey is particularly wild, winding through countless indigenous reserves, mountain passes, lakes, and rivers. Wildlife is everywhere—bears, deer, and moose—which demands maximum concentration at the handlebars!\nAfter that dose of adrenaline, we spent the afternoon exploring the vineyards. The evening concluded beautifully with a gourmet meal and a superb bottle of wine at the magnificent Quail’s Gate estate. Surrounded by vines and overlooking Lake Okanagan, we watched the mountains turn from orange to red, then to purple. A simply memorable evening.\n","date":"11 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/26_day-34-kelowna/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A wild journey on Route 99 toward Kelowna, followed by an unforgettable gourmet evening in the heart of the Okanagan vineyards.","title":"Day 34: Kelowna","type":"post"},{"content":"Kelowna (BC) – Jasper (AB) | 550 km\nI must admit that Kelowna disappointed us a bit. While the vineyards are superb, the city itself lacks charm. You likely have to get away from the center to discover the riches of Lake Okanagan, but time is pressing: I am determined to reach the Icefields Parkway and enjoy the Jasper, Lake Louise, and Banff national parks.\nWe leave fairly early toward Lake Louise. The road is winding, but dense tourist traffic significantly slows our progress.\nUpon our arrival in Lake Louise, we are welcomed at the tourist information office by a very friendly Montrealer. In fact, many national park employees are Quebecers, as bilingualism is a strict requirement. We are suggested several hiking trails, but finding a hotel proves impossible—at least for under $200 a night!\nI pull out my Lonely Planet guide to try to book in Jasper, as establishments there are often full by the end of the day. After two or three calls, I snag a room for $88 in a hotel right in the heart of the village.\nWith our minds at ease, we finally set out on the Icefields Parkway.\nWow!\nThis road is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in the world. It is difficult to travel two kilometers without wanting to take ten photos. I have resorted to developing all sorts of strategies to take pictures while riding; it’s not very safe, I admit, but the temptation is irresistible! Towering mountains, glaciers, rivers, and especially lakes of brilliant turquoise blue pass by non-stop. It is simply impressive, all under perfect weather.\nArriving in Jasper in the late afternoon, we settle into our small room (clean and well-decorated) before heading out to explore the village. The atmosphere is pleasant: touristy, but without the suffocating crowds. We end the day on the terrace of a small restaurant, admiring the surrounding peaks. It is far too beautiful to stay inside!\n","date":"12 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/27_day-35-jasper/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"An unforgettable journey on the Icefields Parkway, one of the most beautiful roads in the world, between glaciers and turquoise lakes.","title":"Day 35: Jasper","type":"post"},{"content":"Jasper (AB) – Banff (AB) | 500 km\nIt is often said that retracing your steps is synonymous with boredom and monotony. Here, it is quite the opposite!\nWe head back toward Banff, crossing the national parks once again (entry fee of $19.60). We take our time, as the vistas are once again impressive. This \u0026ldquo;forces\u0026rdquo; us to make multiple stops to capture a few memorable shots.\nFor lunch, we enjoy a picnic facing the majestic Columbia Icefield. I had visited this place in 1984, and the transformation of the area is incredible—especially the striking retreat of the ice. The melting is so rapid that the glacier has receded several hundred meters since my last visit. It also appears much smoother, with fewer deep crevasses. It remains a staggering sight nonetheless.\nWe continue toward Banff, arriving around 17:00. Fortunately, we had booked the night before. Even if some hotels still show availability, I strongly recommend booking in this kind of tourist zone: a late arrival often means having to pay a premium for the last available rooms.\nThe town is very lively, but in a very\u0026hellip; touristy way! It is a true bubble where Germans, Spaniards, Italians, Asian travelers, and, of course, many Quebecers cross paths, all packed onto the sidewalks and the few terraces.\nTo save a bit of money and enjoy the beautiful weather, we decide to have an outdoor dinner in a park. Finding a nice green space by the river only takes a few minutes. Finding the food is more complex. We eventually opt for sushi. After a 45-minute wait and a bill of $45 (so much for the savings!), the feast is ready. All that\u0026rsquo;s missing is a good bottle of wine found at the Liquor Store.\nWe settle at a picnic table with a view of the river, determined to savor this near-final evening.\nOne small oversight: we hadn\u0026rsquo;t realized that other creatures were also looking for a feast\u0026hellip; and that the prey would be two Quebec tourists! Scarcely had we settled in, unpacked the sushi, and served the wine, when we were invaded by an army of hungry mosquitoes. Despite our attempts to swat them away, it was impossible to stay put. After five minutes, we had to flee to a slightly more hospitable location!\n","date":"13 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/28_day-36-banff/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Between the striking retreat of the Columbia Glacier and a memorable (if shortened) picnic in Banff, a day full of emotions and landscapes.","title":"Day 36: Banff","type":"post"},{"content":"Banff (AB)\nToday is a day dedicated to sport.\nFollowing the sound advice of a Banff National Park employee, we set out to climb one of the most demanding trails in the area: Cory Pass. Once again, the weather is on our side. The sun is shining, it’s warm, and there isn\u0026rsquo;t a breath of wind!\nThe ascent is brutal. The terrain is very steep from the start, putting our legs to a severe test. However, the reward is massive once we reach Cory Pass a few hours later. We enjoy superb high-mountain conditions, literally surrounded by vertical rocky peaks exceeding 3,000 meters in altitude.\nThe day ends more peacefully with a visit to the Fairmont Chateau\u0026hellip;\n\u0026hellip;Followed by a few well-deserved cold beers on a terrace.\n","date":"14 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/29_day-37-a-bit-of-sport/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The brutal ascent of Cory Pass in Banff National Park, rewarded by dizzying views of 3,000-meter peaks.","title":"Day 37: A Day of Sport","type":"post"},{"content":"Banff (AB) – Calgary (AB) | 130 km\nOnly 120 km separate Banff from Calgary, which seems negligible to us now! We make a short stop in Canmore (AB), a charming village just outside Banff National Park, before heading into the metropolis of Calgary.\nThe weather is beautiful, but above all, very hot. Once again, the heat is often harder to combat than the cold, and today is no exception. I even have to take off my jacket to get some relief, which is quite rare for me as I always fear seeing my skin get acquainted with the asphalt; I have no doubt who the loser would be in such a scenario.\nWe drop our gear off at my friend Nigel’s place while he is at work, then head toward the downtown core.\nWe are greeted by countless homeless people and, frankly, we are quite disappointed with the place in general. We spend the rest of the day walking the streets anyway, not really knowing where to go. We ask a few people where to find a lively neighborhood with shops, bars, and restaurants. The answer is invariably the same: \u0026ldquo;You\u0026rsquo;re in Calgary\u0026hellip; There is no street like that here!\u0026rdquo;\nOuch\u0026hellip;\nWe then meet up with Anne-Marie, a longtime friend from high school. We hadn\u0026rsquo;t seen each other in over 25 years! Yet, within minutes, we were as comfortable as in the good old days. We head together to Melrose, a resto-bar on 17th Avenue. What a culture shock: huge pickup trucks are king here!\nNigel joins us later for a superb, lively evening filled with memories and fascinating conversation.\nNo, please ma\u0026rsquo;am, keep your shirt on!\n","date":"16 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/30_day-38-39-calgary/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"A short leg between Banff and Calgary marked by sweltering heat, an urban culture shock, and a memorable reunion after 25 years.","title":"Days 38-39: Calgary","type":"post"},{"content":"05:30 Calgary\n22:30 Grand Rapids (MN) | 1,645 km\nThe journey home.\nWith my girlfriend flying out at 06:00, I decide to leave very early to attempt the distance between Calgary and Montreal in just two days. This will be no easy feat: it is a 3,700 km endurance race against the clock!\nI have to plan this move carefully. It is imperative that the weather stays fair, as my tires are literally at the end of their life. To shorten the route, I modify my GPS settings. By default, it directs me through Chicago to re-enter Canada via Sarnia, but by going through Sault Ste. Marie (ON), between Lakes Superior and Michigan, I save over 300 km and 3 hours of driving. This allows me to plan for 18-hour driving days covering about 1,700 km per day.\nI feel up to the challenge. Fortunately, a high-pressure ridge seems to be covering this part of North America and no precipitation is forecast.\nThe morning is perfect. I cross the Alberta plains with the warm, orange sunrise of the West as my backdrop.\nI then quickly cross Saskatchewan to enter the United States in North Dakota. Naturally, I am treated to a search by US customs. What a waste of time.\nThe heat quickly becomes overwhelming and, by morning, I am suffering from severe stomach cramps. Driving becomes a true ordeal. I have to stop often to lie on the ground to relieve my abdomen. The pain persists all day and forces me to stop in Grand Rapids (MN) around 22:30, whereas my goal was Duluth, 150 km further. I couldn\u0026rsquo;t take any more. I frequently found myself screaming in pain inside my helmet.\nFortunately, the road was easy: long straight lines and quiet highways, with no curves or major intersections.\nHowever, the lighting on my BMW proves insufficient for comfortable night riding. Despite the factory auxiliary lights, the beam does not cover enough distance or width. In a region where the risk of wildlife collisions is high, this is a major handicap. I will have to find a solution upon my return.\nI quickly find a small motel for $45 (the big price difference between the USA and Canada!). I fuel up and fall asleep in seconds.\nIt\u0026rsquo;s perfect, because the alarm is set for 05:00 tomorrow morning!\n","date":"22 September 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/31_day-50-the-return/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The beginning of a 3,700 km endurance race to return to Montreal, marked by magnificent plains and intense physical pain.","title":"Day 40: The Return","type":"post"},{"content":"05:00 Grand Rapids (MN)\n00:15 Montreal | 1,810 km\nThe final day of this long journey!\nMotivation: 110%. Physical condition: 110%. Weather: Perfect. BMW: Tires are tired, but ready for action!\nResult: A high-speed departure toward Montreal, which awaits me peacefully 1,800 km away. Quickly, the rural scenery gives way to more urban areas. Unlike yesterday, the rhythm is broken up by numerous turns and route changes, forcing me to be more active on the bike: frequent overtaking, careful reading of curves, and constant monitoring of the GPS, which seems just as excited as I am by this journey\u0026rsquo;s end.\nI arrive in Canada (Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario) in the late morning after being searched by customs\u0026hellip; American customs! Yes, I am being searched to leave the USA. What stupidity. To think that last year, I crossed 15 borders in Europe without ever stopping. I suppose they believe it\u0026rsquo;s easy to transport a weapon of mass destruction on a motorcycle, or perhaps Bin Laden is hiding in my top case!\nThe entry into Canada, however, takes only ten seconds.\nHappy to begin my final stretch (still 1,000 km to go), I let myself go a bit on the deserted sections.\nUnfortunately, traffic becomes dense and roadwork slows my progress. I am even immobilized for 30 minutes near Sudbury. In the evening, the rain makes its appearance at the worst possible moment, just as darkness covers the coniferous forests.\nThe section between Petawawa and Montreal is no walk in the park. My apprehension toward the rain, justified by my bald tires and near-zero visibility, forces me to slow down considerably.\nI am welcomed back to Montreal by the eternal road closures. We start with the 40, which is totally closed at the entrance to the island. But since I am no tourist here, I decide to bypass the whole mess via Highway 20. I know my city; you won\u0026rsquo;t make me lose another minute! My cozy bed (and my girlfriend) are waiting for me.\nNaturally, the grand and majestic Ministry of Transportation, in its legendary capacity for planning, has also closed the 20, the only alternative route!\nAfter several detours, a few creative infractions of the Highway Safety Code, and some heartfelt swearing, I finally find myself in front of my house. I am safe and sound, but I suddenly realize that the journey is over. To my surprise, I struggle to get off the bike. I take a few minutes to reflect before finding the courage to cut the ignition, putting a final point on this superb adventure in the Canadian West.\nDistance traveled: 18,975 km (GPS) Final Odometer: 28,750 km\n","date":"18 August 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/32_day41-the-last-stretch/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"The ultimate 1,800 km marathon to close the loop in Montreal, featuring overzealous customs, roadwork, and the emotion of cutting the ignition one last time.","title":"Day 41: The Final Stretch","type":"post"},{"content":"Post Mortem\nMon voyage dans l’Ouest canadien fut planifié de longue date. Le travail de recherche a commencé en septembre 2007, dès la commande de ma BMW R1200GS Adventure 2008.\nInternet est une source de renseignements inépuisable. Des sites comme Horizons Unlimited, ADVrider et Moto Aventure Québec m’ont grandement aidé à me préparer mentalement, à choisir l\u0026rsquo;équipement et à tracer l\u0026rsquo;itinéraire pour l\u0026rsquo;Arctique.\nEn révisant ma planification initiale, je remarque que les principales différences résident dans le temps alloué. Les distances de 1200 km par jour sont finalement très accessibles dans cette partie du monde, et l\u0026rsquo;absence de points d\u0026rsquo;intérêt majeurs dans certaines sections incite à pousser plus loin pour gagner du temps.\nPoints forts de la préparation # GPS (Garmin Zumo 550) : Indispensable. Je n\u0026rsquo;ai pas de temps à perdre à chercher mon chemin. C\u0026rsquo;est un outil de performance qui permet de trouver un motel ou une adresse sans stress. Support GPS Touratech verrouillable : Offre une tranquillité d’esprit lors des arrêts rapides et la robustesse nécessaire pour les sentiers. Pneus TKC80 : Ils m’ont sauvé la vie au retour d’Inuvik. Les acheter à Montréal m\u0026rsquo;a aussi permis d\u0026rsquo;économiser une fortune par rapport aux prix pratiqués dans l\u0026rsquo;Ouest. Veste chauffante Widder : Je ne pourrais plus voyager sans elle. Le gradateur permet un ajustement thermique précis, essentiel dans le Nord. Suspension électronique (ESA/ASC) : Un net avantage sur les nouvelles GS 2008, surtout avec une machine lourdement chargée hors route. Throttle Lock : Ce n\u0026rsquo;est pas un régulateur de vitesse, mais il permet de reposer le bras droit et de manipuler des objets (casque, gants, nourriture) en roulant. Mécanique de base : Avoir pratiqué le changement de pneus avant le départ sécurise énormément l\u0026rsquo;esprit. Points faibles ou à améliorer # Gants BMW : Excellents pour 95 % du temps, mais insuffisants contre le froid intense et la pluie battante. Une coquille imperméable est nécessaire. Sac de couchage : Mon sac +7 °C, bien qu\u0026rsquo;ultra-compact, était trop juste. Un sac -7 °C est impératif, malgré l\u0026rsquo;encombrement supplémentaire. Stratégie de bagages : Ma volonté de tout verrouiller sur la moto limitait trop mon volume de rangement pour le matériel de camping complet. Éclairage : Les phares de série sont insuffisants pour la conduite nocturne sécuritaire dans les zones à haute densité de faune. Siège : La selle d\u0026rsquo;origine n\u0026rsquo;est pas conçue pour des journées de 18 heures. Même avec un Airhawk 2, la douleur devient vive. Une selle Sargent est prévue pour le prochain voyage. Casque (Nolan N102) : Ma plus grande déception. Bien que modulaire et compatible Bluetooth, il est trop lourd, bruyant, fragile et peu étanche. Pour un voyage plus exigeant (comme l\u0026rsquo;Amérique du Sud), je choisirais un modèle plus rigide et fiable. Mot de la fin # Je tiens à souligner l\u0026rsquo;incroyable hospitalité des gens de l\u0026rsquo;Ouest. Malgré les difficultés, le recul me fait déjà oublier la fatigue et je rêve déjà d\u0026rsquo;y retourner.\nL\u0026rsquo;Ouest canadien est majestueux, mais ses distances imposent le respect. Un kit de survie (tente, nourriture pour 3 jours, filtre à eau) est obligatoire, car on ne peut compter que sur soi-même en cas de pépin dans les régions isolées.\nJ\u0026rsquo;espère que ce carnet de voyage vous sera utile pour vos propres projets. N\u0026rsquo;oubliez pas : l\u0026rsquo;aventure avant tout !\n","date":"22 September 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/33-post-mortem/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Bilan complet de l’aventure : analyse de l’équipement, points forts de la préparation et leçons apprises après 19 000 km sur les routes de l’Arctique et de l’Ouest canadien.","title":"Post Mortem","type":"post"},{"content":"Post Mortem\nMy trip to Western Canada was planned long in advance. The research work began in September 2007, as soon as I ordered my 2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure.\nThe Internet is an inexhaustible source of information. Sites like Horizons Unlimited, ADVrider, and Moto Aventure Québec helped me greatly in mental preparation, choosing equipment, and mapping out the route for the Arctic.\nReviewing my initial planning, I notice that the main differences lie in the time allocated. Distances of 1,200 km per day are actually very accessible in this part of the world, and the lack of major points of interest in certain sections encourages pushing further to save time.\nPreparation Highlights # GPS (Garmin Zumo 550): Indispensable. I have no time to waste looking for my way. It is a performance tool that allows you to find a motel or an address without stress. Lockable Touratech GPS Mount: Provides peace of mind during quick stops and the necessary sturdiness for trails. TKC80 Tires: They saved my life on the return from Inuvik. Buying them in Montreal also saved me a fortune compared to Western prices. Widder Heated Vest: I could no longer travel without it. The dimmer allows for precise thermal adjustment, which is essential in the North. Electronic Suspension (ESA/ASC): A clear advantage on the new 2008 GS, especially with a heavily loaded machine off-road. Throttle Lock: It is not cruise control, but it allows the right arm to rest and lets you handle objects (helmet, gloves, food) while riding. Basic Mechanics: Having practiced changing tires before departure provides enormous peace of mind. Weak Points or Areas for Improvement # BMW Gloves: Excellent 95% of the time, but insufficient against intense cold and driving rain. A waterproof shell is necessary. Sleeping Bag: My +7°C bag, while ultra-compact, was too light. A -7°C bag is imperative, despite the extra bulk. Luggage Strategy: My desire to lock everything on the bike limited my storage volume too much for full camping gear. Lighting: Stock headlights are insufficient for safe night driving in high-wildlife-density areas. Seat: The original saddle is not designed for 18-hour days. Even with an Airhawk 2, the pain becomes sharp. A Sargent seat is planned for the next trip. Helmet (Nolan N102): My biggest disappointment. Although modular and Bluetooth compatible, it is too heavy, noisy, fragile, and not very waterproof. For a more demanding trip (like South America), I would choose a more rigid and reliable model. Final Word # I want to highlight the incredible hospitality of the people in the West. Despite the difficulties, hindsight already makes me forget the fatigue, and I am already dreaming of going back.\nWestern Canada is majestic, but its distances command respect. A survival kit (tent, food for 3 days, water filter) is mandatory, as you can only count on yourself if something goes wrong in isolated regions.\nI hope this travel log will be useful for your own projects. Don\u0026rsquo;t forget: adventure above all!\n","date":"22 September 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/post/","section":"Post Mortem","summary":"Full project debrief: equipment analysis, preparation highlights, and lessons learned after 19,000 km on the roads of the Arctic and Western Canada.","title":"Post Mortem","type":"post"},{"content":"Livres et DVD qui ont aidé (grandement!) à préparer mon Aventure!\n\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_429\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Lonely Planet - British Columbia (ISBN 978-1-74104-584-0)\"\\]lonely_bc \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_422\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Lonely Planet - Alaska (ISBN 1-74059-991-8)\"\\]lonely_alaska \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_423\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Adventure Motorcylcing Handbook (ISBN 1-873756-80-1)\"\\]Adventure Motorcylcing Handbook (ISBN 1-873756-80-1) \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_424\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Odyssey to Ushuaia (ISBN 1-55652-440-4)\"\\]ushuaia \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_425\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Riding the World (ISBN 1-931993-24-6)\"\\]riding_world \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_426\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"240\" caption=\"Touratech 2008 (Catalogue)\"\\]touratech \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_427\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Inuvik - A History: 1958 - 2008 (by Dick Hill ISBN 142515973-7)\"\\]inuvik \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_428\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Inuvik in Pictrures: 1958 - 2008 (by Dick Hill ISBN 142514463-2)\"\\]inuvik_images \\[/caption\\]","date":"2 November 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/books/","section":"Canada by Motorcycle - From the South to the Arctic Circle!","summary":"Livres et DVD qui ont aidé (grandement!) à préparer mon Aventure!\n\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_429\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Lonely Planet - British Columbia (ISBN 978-1-74104-584-0)\"\\]lonely_bc \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_422\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Lonely Planet - Alaska (ISBN 1-74059-991-8)\"\\]lonely_alaska \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_423\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Adventure Motorcylcing Handbook (ISBN 1-873756-80-1)\"\\]Adventure Motorcylcing Handbook (ISBN 1-873756-80-1) \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_424\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Odyssey to Ushuaia (ISBN 1-55652-440-4)\"\\]ushuaia \\[/caption\\]\\[caption id=\"attachment\\_425\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"140\" caption=\"Riding the World (ISBN 1-931993-24-6)\"\\]riding_world ","title":"Bibliographie","type":"page"},{"content":"One man, 2 wheels, 2 months, and 20,000 km of Adventure!\nVersion française Over the past few years, I’ve had the chance to visit Europe and especially South America on several occasions for months at a time. I love traveling, discovering new horizons, different cultures, and languages. I enjoy visiting completely unknown cities, climbing mountains and volcanoes, and trekking through deserts and rainforests.\nYet, I hate driving.\nActually, I don\u0026rsquo;t hate driving itself; I simply have an aversion to the automobile and the consequences it has on the daily life of an explorer (and a Montreal resident!). I certainly don\u0026rsquo;t like circling for two hours to find parking, or paying 100 euros to fill the tank. I also don\u0026rsquo;t like the feeling of enclosure and detachment that comes from being inside a closed cabin (or even an open one like a convertible).\nThere is always what I consider a more \u0026ldquo;real\u0026rdquo; way to travel: by public transport with a backpack. This method of discovery isn\u0026rsquo;t always easy, however, and comes with several constraints. Indeed, it is difficult to get off the beaten path and discover less touristy, more remote places. You have to settle for destinations served by buses or trains, or rely on taxis, which aren\u0026rsquo;t always very economical.\nWhile this method allows for closer contact with the local population, it doesn\u0026rsquo;t eliminate the sense of enclosure and doesn\u0026rsquo;t always provide the feeling of freedom and change of scenery I seek.\nSince I was 16, I have always owned a car. For me, it was a visceral need, a way of life, and also a status symbol. It was also a major source of expenses and, with current costs of acquisition, maintenance, and gas, it became one expense too many—especially considering the distances I covered annually.\nIn 2006, at the end of my vehicle\u0026rsquo;s long-term lease, I decided to return the car and not renew the contract. Simultaneously, I had the opportunity to be transferred for work to downtown Montreal. Living in the Notre-Dame-de-Grâce neighborhood, I could then easily commute by bike or take the metro when the weather didn\u0026rsquo;t cooperate!\nOf course, it wasn\u0026rsquo;t an easy adjustment. Cycling in my city is \u0026ldquo;slightly\u0026rdquo; perilous (merciless pavement, reckless drivers, blind pedestrians, weather\u0026hellip;). The metro is relatively uncomfortable because it\u0026rsquo;s far too crowded during rush hour and breaks down too often. During an autumn outing (the famous Montreal \u0026ldquo;5 à 7\u0026rdquo; happy hour!), I decided to walk along St-Laurent Boulevard to head to a small bistro in Outremont when I passed by a Vespa dealer. They are charming, these little machines!\nIn fact, I had never really considered buying a motorcycle, let alone a scooter. My work had given me the \u0026ldquo;chance\u0026rdquo; to see the consequences of motorcycle accidents, and I had promised myself I would never buy that type of vehicle. I had owned a few bikes over the years, but without much conviction. Uncomfortable, impractical, cold, and hot were the words that came to mind when thinking of motorcycles.\nHowever, a few trips to Europe showed me a different reality. On that continent, this mode of transport is simply linked to efficiency and constitutes one of the only practical solutions to urban congestion. I believe that over there, it is a way of life rather than a leisure activity like it is here.\nTo make a long story short, two days later, I was zipping through the saturated streets of Montreal on a superb Vespa GTx 250!!! Wow, what a great bike! I am free, finally!!! Top speed of 140 km/h, easy to weave through heavy traffic. Obviously, I’m not in Europe where you find these machines on every street corner. I get called every name in the book by some, while others roll down their windows to voice their approval of this \u0026ldquo;eco-friendly\u0026rdquo; move. But ultimately, I loved this new lifestyle, to the point of always wanting to go a bit further, sometimes leaving the city behind.\nWhile this machine offered a cruising speed that allowed for comfortable highway travel, it wasn\u0026rsquo;t designed for it. The braking, steering, engine, and suspension were adequate but made longer trips uncomfortable and sometimes perilous.\nIn the spring of 2007, during a weekend ride, I made a mistake that would prove very costly. I stopped, just to \u0026ldquo;look,\u0026rdquo; at a BMW Motorrad dealer near my house. Two days later, I was riding a 2007 BMW R1200GS, ready to conquer the whole world!!!\nI fell totally in love with BMW\u0026rsquo;s GS series. A machine I didn\u0026rsquo;t really know but which, as if in a dream, was waiting for me—as if someone had produced a motorcycle intended exactly for what I was looking for: Adventure.\nMy goal is simple and clear: to complete a solo trip from Canada to Argentina (specifically Patagonia). Obviously, this doesn\u0026rsquo;t happen in a few days or even a few months. You have to practice, practice, and practice some more, but above all, plan and get to know your limits.\nThe summer of 2007 took me to the Maritimes and Colorado. I covered 20,000 km, which allowed me to see the limits of the machine (and my own!). Upon returning from Denver, I decided to look at the long term and trade my GS for the 2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure model.\nIt is a similar bike but offers advantages that addressed the problems encountered during my first trips:\nSubstantial increase in range thanks to a tank allowing for 700 km; Enduro Transmission allowing for easier off-road riding or when the bike is loaded (shorter 1st gear); Better front protection with a larger windshield; Electronic Suspension allowing for handling adjustments in various conditions (bumpy roads, off-road, passenger, and luggage); More powerful electrical system for accessories (heated vest, GPS); Better leg protection; Higher riding position, an advantage on trails or rough roads; Metal storage cases (stronger, more space, more secure); Better lighting (auxiliary lights); Power outlets for accessories; Spoked wheels (stronger). I finally received the beast in April 2008 after long months of winter waiting. In fact, the winter of 2008 was certainly the most difficult of my existence. Having bought the bike, I decided not to take a trip, and this decision coincided with the harshest winter ever recorded in Quebec! Meters of snow, like never before! On the other hand, this allowed me to work hard on planning a major first outing that would serve as practice for an eventual trip to Patagonia: crossing my country and reaching Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. The end of the road because, literally, it is impossible to go any further in the country during the summer.\nI initially considered going to Mexico, but I quickly pivoted toward Canada for a very simple reason: I had never crossed and truly visited my own country!\nI read nearly every adventure website, bought a few books, and began drafting the route planning and the necessary gear to accomplish such a crossing alone and self-sufficiently.\nSo, here is a brief summary of my Adventure, written daily in my spare time.\nStart the adventure List of all publications Version française ","date":"2 November 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/","section":"Canada by Motorcycle - From the South to the Arctic Circle!","summary":"An adventure story of 20,000 km across Canada, from Montreal to Inuvik, aboard a BMW R1200GS Adventure.","title":"Canada by Motorcycle - From the South to the Arctic Circle!","type":"page"},{"content":"","date":"22 September 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2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/tags/ontario/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Ontario","type":"tags"},{"content":"","date":"10 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/tags/thunder-bay/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Thunder Bay","type":"tags"},{"content":"","date":"9 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/fr/tags/d%C3%A9part/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Départ","type":"tags"},{"content":"","date":"9 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/tags/departure/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Departure","type":"tags"},{"content":"","date":"9 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/tags/quebec/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Quebec","type":"tags"},{"content":"","date":"9 July 2008","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/fr/tags/qu%C3%A9bec/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Québec","type":"tags"},{"content":" About Me # Adventurer | Motorcyclist | Observer\nI am a traveler who believes that the best stories are found where the asphalt meets the unknown. In 2008, I embarked on a journey that took me into the heart of the Canadian wilderness, pushing north to the Arctic and the legendary Dempster Highway.\nMy approach to travel is a blend of meticulous preparation and a willingness to let the elements dictate the path. Whether I am navigating the mountain passes of Manning Provincial Park, dodging deer in the British Columbia backcountry, or anticipating a ferry crossing under persistent rain, I find a certain beauty in both the logistics and the landscape.\nThis blog is the chronicle of those miles — a collection of moments where the road, the bike, and the weather converged to create an unforgettable expedition. It is about much more than just a destination; it is about \u0026ldquo;survival,\u0026rdquo; grand scenery, and the spirit of the road.\nKey Themes of My Journey: # The Road: Navigating diverse terrains on two wheels, from coastal ferries to high-altitude mountain roads. The North: A deep fascination with the rugged beauty of the Dempster Highway and the Arctic regions. The Reality: Honest reflections on weather delays, mechanical vigilance, and the visceral experience of long-distance solo travel. ","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/about/","section":"Canada by Motorcycle - From the South to the Arctic Circle!","summary":" About Me # Adventurer | Motorcyclist | Observer\nI am a traveler who believes that the best stories are found where the asphalt meets the unknown. In 2008, I embarked on a journey that took me into the heart of the Canadian wilderness, pushing north to the Arctic and the legendary Dempster Highway.\nMy approach to travel is a blend of meticulous preparation and a willingness to let the elements dictate the path. Whether I am navigating the mountain passes of Manning Provincial Park, dodging deer in the British Columbia backcountry, or anticipating a ferry crossing under persistent rain, I find a certain beauty in both the logistics and the landscape.\n","title":"About","type":"page"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/authors/","section":"Authors","summary":"","title":"Authors","type":"authors"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/categories/","section":"Categories","summary":"","title":"Categories","type":"categories"},{"content":"If you would like to contact me regarding the adventure, itinerary planning, or gear, don\u0026rsquo;t hesitate to send a message.\nName Email Message Send ","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/contact/","section":"Canada by Motorcycle - From the South to the Arctic Circle!","summary":"If you would like to contact me regarding the adventure, itinerary planning, or gear, don’t hesitate to send a message.\nName Email Message Send ","title":"Contact","type":"page"},{"content":"","externalUrl":null,"permalink":"/en/series/","section":"Series","summary":"","title":"Series","type":"series"}]