Day 1: Ontario
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The grand departure from Montreal marked by the first equipment failure, fickle weather, and the first logistical adjustments heading toward Sault Ste. Marie.
Post Mortem
Post Mortem
My trip to Western Canada was planned long in advance. The research work began in September 2007, as soon as I ordered my 2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure.
The Internet is an inexhaustible source of information. Sites like Horizons Unlimited, ADVrider, and Moto Aventure Québec helped me greatly in mental preparation, choosing equipment, and mapping out the route for the Arctic.
Reviewing my initial planning, I notice that the main differences lie in the time allocated. Distances of 1,200 km per day are actually very accessible in this part of the world, and the lack of major points of interest in certain sections encourages pushing further to save time.
Preparation Highlights#
- GPS (Garmin Zumo 550): Indispensable. I have no time to waste looking for my way. It is a performance tool that allows you to find a motel or an address without stress.
- Lockable Touratech GPS Mount: Provides peace of mind during quick stops and the necessary sturdiness for trails.
- TKC80 Tires: They saved my life on the return from Inuvik. Buying them in Montreal also saved me a fortune compared to Western prices.
- Widder Heated Vest: I could no longer travel without it. The dimmer allows for precise thermal adjustment, which is essential in the North.
- Electronic Suspension (ESA/ASC): A clear advantage on the new 2008 GS, especially with a heavily loaded machine off-road.
- Throttle Lock: It is not cruise control, but it allows the right arm to rest and lets you handle objects (helmet, gloves, food) while riding.
- Basic Mechanics: Having practiced changing tires before departure provides enormous peace of mind.
Weak Points or Areas for Improvement#
- BMW Gloves: Excellent 95% of the time, but insufficient against intense cold and driving rain. A waterproof shell is necessary.
- Sleeping Bag: My +7°C bag, while ultra-compact, was too light. A -7°C bag is imperative, despite the extra bulk.
- Luggage Strategy: My desire to lock everything on the bike limited my storage volume too much for full camping gear.
- Lighting: Stock headlights are insufficient for safe night driving in high-wildlife-density areas.
- Seat: The original saddle is not designed for 18-hour days. Even with an Airhawk 2, the pain becomes sharp. A Sargent seat is planned for the next trip.
- Helmet (Nolan N102): My biggest disappointment. Although modular and Bluetooth compatible, it is too heavy, noisy, fragile, and not very waterproof. For a more demanding trip (like South America), I would choose a more rigid and reliable model.
Final Word#
I want to highlight the incredible hospitality of the people in the West. Despite the difficulties, hindsight already makes me forget the fatigue, and I am already dreaming of going back.
Western Canada is majestic, but its distances command respect. A survival kit (tent, food for 3 days, water filter) is mandatory, as you can only count on yourself if something goes wrong in isolated regions.
I hope this travel log will be useful for your own projects. Don’t forget: adventure above all!
Day 2: Ontario... Again!
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A long trek through Western Ontario featuring pristine roads and autumnal temperatures, ending with the first night of camping.
Day 3: Ontario, the End (Finally!)
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A grueling crossing under an icy deluge toward Manitoba, followed by a nostalgic stopover in Winnipeg and a warm welcome.
Day 4: The Prairies
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An epic 1,400 km trek across Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta, battling violent winds and biting cold before reaching Edmonton.
Day 5: Edmonton
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A well-deserved rest day in Edmonton to visit the famous mall, restock supplies, and prep gear before the start of the cellular blackout.
Day 6: British Columbia
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Entering British Columbia marks the beginning of the Rockies and my first encounter with a wild bear, despite persistent cold and voracious mosquitoes.
Day 7: Yukon
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A spectacular day through the Rockies into the Yukon, featuring wildlife encounters, motorcycle maintenance in Whitehorse, and a memorable lesson about cayenne pepper.
Day 8: Dempster Highway (NWT)
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The ultimate test: 16 grueling hours and 1,230 km on the road to reach Inuvik, between grandiose Arctic landscapes and perilous gravel sections.
Day 9: Inuvik
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A day of rest and cultural discovery in Inuvik, including historic meetings at the library, a visit to the RCMP, and reaching the northernmost point of the road.
Day 10: Arctic Survival
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The most perilous day of the trip: an exhausting struggle against the freezing mud of the Dempster Highway, marked by several falls and a determination put to the ultimate test.
Day 11: Arctic Survival, the Conclusion
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The relief of leaving the muddy hell of the Dempster Highway to find asphalt again, followed by an unplanned trek south after finding Dawson City packed.
Day 12: Cassiar Highway
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A long journey on the winding Cassiar Highway through the mountains of British Columbia, ending in the historic and friendly charm of Stewart.
Day 13: A Few Minutes in Alaska!
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A quick foray into Alaska to admire a glacier, followed by a gradual return to civilization marked by a liberating tire change.
Day 14: Kelowna, the Second Guessing
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A thermal and urban shock in Kelowna triggers a deep questioning of the journey’s continuation, caught between sweltering heat and nostalgia for the vast northern spaces.
Day 15: Vancouver
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A radical transition from mountain highways to urban luxury in Vancouver, moving from wilderness camping to the five-star comfort of the Fairmont Hotel.
Day 16: The Tourist
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A well-deserved break in Vancouver to explore the city on foot, from Stanley Park to Granville Island, away from the noise of the motorcycle.
Day 17: Sunshine Coast
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A getaway to the Sunshine Coast marked by the privilege of motorcyclists on the ferry and an attempted reunion with friends for a camping feast.
Day 18: Friends!
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Festive reunions on the Sunshine Coast with cycling friends to share a memorable meal around a campfire.
Day 19: Manning Provincial Park
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A rainy journey east to reach Manning Park, featuring winding mountain roads and impromptu encounters with the local wildlife.
Day 20: Skagit Valley Provincial Park
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A memorable hike on Silverdaisy Mountain marked by a chance meeting with Sev Heiberg, a Canadian mountaineering legend, maintaining trails at 82 years old.
Days 21 to 26: Vancouver
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Nadine’s arrival in Vancouver marks a transition to a two-person journey, featuring luxurious surprises at the Fairmont and logistical management of BMW maintenance costs.
Day 27: Pacific Rim Highway
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A winding journey across Vancouver Island toward Tofino, through rugged mountains and a spectacular arrival into the ocean mist of the Pacific.
Days 28 and 29 - Victoria
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A charming stopover in Victoria, featuring century-old architecture and vineyards, despite a minor mishap with local parking.
Day 30: Sea to Sky Highway
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A spectacular journey between Victoria and Whistler, featuring steep rock faces and Olympic-sized traffic jams.
Days 31, 32, and 33: Whistler
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Three days in Whistler between the excitement of the village and the spectacular ascent of Mount Whistler, peaking at 2,100 meters.
Day 34: Kelowna
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A wild journey on Route 99 toward Kelowna, followed by an unforgettable gourmet evening in the heart of the Okanagan vineyards.
Day 35: Jasper
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An unforgettable journey on the Icefields Parkway, one of the most beautiful roads in the world, between glaciers and turquoise lakes.
Day 36: Banff
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Between the striking retreat of the Columbia Glacier and a memorable (if shortened) picnic in Banff, a day full of emotions and landscapes.
Day 37: A Day of Sport
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The brutal ascent of Cory Pass in Banff National Park, rewarded by dizzying views of 3,000-meter peaks.
Days 38-39: Calgary
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A short leg between Banff and Calgary marked by sweltering heat, an urban culture shock, and a memorable reunion after 25 years.
Day 40: The Return
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The beginning of a 3,700 km endurance race to return to Montreal, marked by magnificent plains and intense physical pain.
Day 41: The Final Stretch
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The ultimate 1,800 km marathon to close the loop in Montreal, featuring overzealous customs, roadwork, and the emotion of cutting the ignition one last time.
Post Mortem
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Bilan complet de l’aventure : analyse de l’équipement, points forts de la préparation et leçons apprises après 19 000 km sur les routes de l’Arctique et de l’Ouest canadien.