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Day 1: Ontario

·607 words·3 mins

08:00 Montreal (QC) Starting Odometer: 9798 km
19:30 Sault Ste. Marie (ON) 1009 km

And so it begins.

After all these months of preparation, it is finally time to set off for Adventure!

Kilometer 0 (yes, ZERO!): first equipment failure!

While preparing the bike last night, I dropped it, likely due to nerves. Result: a broken clutch lever. I quickly decide to live with it for now, as it snapped at the tip and remains functional. Still, a solid $100 wasted without even leaving the house!

I leave at the same time as Nadine, who is heading to work. She doesn’t seem very happy to see me go, which is understandable. It’s an extraordinary adventure, carrying its share of dangers and real risk. Furthermore, the number of weeks away is substantial and won’t be easy to manage.

The bike is very heavy, and I need to get used to it quickly. Getting out of Montreal is a struggle due to heavy traffic, but the weather is perfect: beautiful and warm.

Not for long, though!

2008-07-10 Ontario

I get onto the 417 toward Ottawa and Northern Ontario. A light rain sets in, as if to warn me of what’s to come. Nothing too serious, however. As soon as I leave Quebec, the road improves significantly. For those not from the province, it’s worth noting that our road conditions are execrable. The state of the pavement, the signage, and the road layout are simply pathetic.

There is little traffic. I ride slowly, around 110 km/h, which is very conservative, economical, and above all, comfortable. This is the pace I was aiming for and hope to maintain. It would be easy to ride at 130 or 140 km/h, but I am on vacation; I don’t want to stress about the police or animals, which are very present in this area.

The landscape is rather monotonous. I pass Ottawa and Petawawa without incident, heading toward Northern Ontario.

2008-07-10 Ontario 08

Just before Sudbury, I literally hit a weather front. I enter a wall of wind that makes the temperature drop from 30°C to a chilly 17°C in seconds. I have to pull out the heated vest almost immediately.

After a few hours on the road, I arrive in Sault Ste. Marie. I decide to take a hotel room, even though I had planned to camp, because it is definitely too cold. Off to a great start. I also realize I might not have enough warm clothes—not for riding, but for the evenings and activities.

I decide to completely rethink my luggage organization, as the current distribution doesn’t suit me. With the tires strapped to the top box, the box is inaccessible, and the side panniers are difficult to reach. So, I place all the items I won’t need daily into the top box.

My transport strategy is simple: everything must fit inside the storage. I am using the original aluminum panniers from my 2008 BMW R1200GS Adventure. They are sturdy, spacious, and above all, secure since they lock. The tires are securely attached to the top box with a wire cable and a padlock. The only unsecured item is a small, inexpensive cooler.

While I am working on the bike, I am approached by two retired Ontarians on their way to Moab. They are riding a BMW R1100GS and an R1200GS. They are carrying an incredible amount of luggage! They explain that they are going camping and they like their comfort.

I take out the stove to cook some good homemade pasta, and bedtime arrives quickly. I need to be in shape for tomorrow!

Did I mention that Sault Ste. Marie looks like a ghost town?