06:15 Winnipeg (MB)
19:30 Edmonton (AB) 1400 km
The Adventure starts early! Alarm set for 05:50. Since everything is ready on the bike (prepped the night before!), I head out a few minutes later and attack the road with determination. Surprise: my first gravel road! Long live GPS… my Garmin Zumo 550 takes me through an improbable little side road. After that, I tackle Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta.
Yesterday was rain; today, it’s wind! And a light drizzle to spice things up. When I say wind, I mean violent 80 km/h gusts: the bike wobbles constantly, my head wants to fly off, and to complete the recipe, it’s a lovely 12°C.
After five hours of suffering (literally), I am frozen, exhausted, and yes, I wonder what the hell I’m doing alone in the middle of Saskatchewan when I could be with my girlfriend, feet in the warm water of a lake in Quebec!
After an internet break at a gas station, I put on my North Face Windstopper jacket and head back into hell. I realize I have every possible layer on my back. If I’m still cold, I’m out of solutions:
- Technical camisole and long-sleeved shirt
- Widder heated vest with sleeves
- North Face shell
- North Face Windstopper
- BMW Rallye 2 Pro
Fortunately, with all these layers, I’m no longer cold. Additionally, the clouds dissipate, the wind drops a bit, and I can finally catch my breath. The Saskatchewan plains can truly be brutal!
After 10 hours on the road, Alberta finally arrives, and the good weather along with it!
It would be a lie to say this was an easy or even pleasant day. There were some very dark moments. I even find myself chasing birds on the side of the road with my horn; surprisingly, it changes my focus and passes the time. I also perform acrobatics on the bike to relieve my legs and rear end.
I deeply regret not buying a high-performance aftermarket seat. I acquired an AirHawk 2 cushion which helps a little, but the stock seat on my GS is simply not designed for such long journeys. The ride becomes uncomfortable, even painful.
Finally, I arrive in Edmonton at a hotel booked online for $65. Not bad (it would end up being my cheapest hotel in Canada!). Obviously, no time to rest—it’s Saturday night, after all. I empty the bike again: tires, clothes, wet camping gear. One shower and hop, the downtown area is calling!
To my great surprise, there is no surprise here. I expected a lot, but Edmonton (“Ed-monotone” as some like to say) is totally dead. The streets are empty. It’s a typically American downtown where pickups and dragsters share the road. The only lively avenue is Whyte Ave, in the Old Strathcona district. After walking up and down, I end up at The Keg for dinner and a glass of wine. That says it all!