07:30 Whitehorse
12:30 Entrance of the Dempster Highway
23:30 (00:30 local time) Inuvik !!!!! 1230 km
Today was the most difficult day of motorcycling of my life.
Nothing to report between Whitehorse and Dawson City, aside from a few gravel sections due to construction and some animals that are as surprising as ever! I take the opportunity to follow a group of GS riders, but I soon overtake them to continue alone, as their pace was a bit too slow.
Started this long-awaited road (Dempster Highway) around 12:30, after gassing up at $1.75 a liter!
The road is superb. After 5 or 6 km, you ride on well-compacted gravel that allows for maintaining a good speed.
After 40-50 minutes, you cross Tombstone Provincial Park and the landscape is simply breathtaking. It resembles the majestic expanses found in Argentina or Chile. You quickly find yourself in high-mountain conditions, with even a bit of snow in the rivers. However, I am lucky: the weather is perfect with a beautiful 25°C.
My hottest day to date is taking place in the Arctic!
It is difficult to travel 5 km without stopping to contemplate the horizon stretching as far as the eye can see. Once again, it’s a bit like South America, but much greener.
There are very few cars. I sometimes go an hour without passing anyone. It’s pleasant, but frightening at the same time: if I have a breakdown or an accident, I am truly alone. I can ride comfortably at 100 km/h, but I remain very vigilant for obvious reasons.
All that was about to change… rapidly.
In northern Yukon, just before entering the Northwest Territories, the road deteriorates at lightning speed. I come very close to losing control in thick, soft gravel that takes me by surprise. What a horrific feeling.
A bit later, I cross the limits of the Arctic Circle. Tourist photo click and move on, as it’s starting to get late.
Fatigue is evident. I must stay 100% focused to spot the traps in the road, which is increasingly frequent since I have to ride standing up very often.
Two ferries in one hour. Past Fort McPherson, the road deteriorates to the point where my speed drops considerably. I am constantly standing and on high alert. If I fall here, I prefer not to imagine the consequences. I skirt catastrophe five or six times, but I manage to keep things under control.
The last 300 kilometers are done standing up, at 50-60 km/h. A true test of endurance, determination, and riding skill.
The mountainous landscape gives way to tundra. It is late and I have to work hard to keep the bike on the road. A loss of control here is serious because the road is built on permafrost: a base of 3 or 4 meters of gravel had to be erected over the ground. If I leave the pavement, I literally fall 4 meters down!
I get passed by a few trucks kicking up thick dust. If a car were following them, the driver would never see me! Fortunately, it is late and I am almost alone.
23:30, 16 hours later: here I am at last in Inuvik! Safe and sound.
I quickly tour the village and head to the campground located 2 km before the town entrance. I’m going to have my best night’s sleep there to date, despite the permanent daylight.
I will stay here for two days because I am not hitting the road tomorrow; I am too exhausted. Plus, I get a free night at the campground since I arrived after midnight!
This road was quite an experience and a hell of a test. It’s a good thing I had installed TKC80 (off-road) tires on the bike. The return trip will be different: I intend to take my time, take photos, and ride slower… at least, that’s what I thought!
The bike is so dirty that as soon as I touch it, I get soiled. I’ll go wash it tomorrow, as my clothes are still contaminated with bear repellent!
