09:30 Eagle’s Plain
14:30 End of the Dempster Highway
15:00 Dawson City
20:00 Campground (1 hour before Whitehorse) | 810 km
It’s incredible how a good night’s sleep restores your energy.
Quickly, I head out and note that the weather is much calmer. There are clouds, but they are high up, and the winds are light, which is generally a good sign.
Some travelers are still hesitating about heading up to Inuvik and ask for my opinion. I understand their desire to go—it’s the trip of a lifetime for many—but safety comes first. Personally, I wouldn’t go, especially since you have to come back and the forecast remains poor for the coming days. But humans need to see and feel for themselves to understand reality; I wish them luck.
I quickly assess that the situation is much better than yesterday. I’m informed that this weather window will only last a day before the showers return. The decision is made: I want out of this hell! I know it will be difficult, but compared to yesterday, it’s a summer day. A bit of mist follows me, but nothing worrying.
The members of GSRiders.us seem hesitant to leave. They will make their decision later. They ask me to inform them of the conditions along the way, but that will be impossible due to the lack of network.
I am happy to be traveling solo. Decisions are simpler. History will prove me right: the group will leave too late and get caught by the bad weather. One of the members will suffer a severe loss of control, several fractures, and will have to be evacuated by helicopter.
I start the journey well. The road is much more stable than yesterday, and I manage to maintain a good speed most of the time. However, I remain vigilant regarding the muddy sections. The big GS is impossible to steer on this type of ground; I stop before every puddle to venture through cautiously.
Halfway through, I pass a cyclist from Calgary heading up toward Inuvik… Now there’s a real tough guy! The road is deserted. I rarely pass vehicles and overtake a first motorcycle: an old BMW R100 from the 80s ridden by a German couple. Incredible!
There is only one bridge on this road, and it was a pleasure to cross it. Afterward, the conditions improve to the point where I can ride at 100 km/h! What a joy. I stay 100% focused to sniff out danger and perceive changes in the gravel’s color, especially when it turns black or shiny. Despite the improvement, I still often have to “save the day” to avoid a fall. It’s normal to push the machine a bit, as the road is endless. The scenery is superb, and despite the risks, I tell myself it’s truly worth it.
After 300 km, the road deteriorates again, and I have to slow down seriously for 50 km. But around 14:15, I look at my GPS: only 12 km left! An immense relief washes over me, sweeping away all the trials of the last few days. That’s it, I have conquered the Dempster Highway!
Funny fact: a few kilometers from the exit, I pass a couple heading onto the road in a buggy, with two horses and cowboy hats!
As nothing is ever simple in this part of the country, the last 10 kilometers are grueling, and I have to ride at a crawl. But at 14:30, I experience one of the most beautiful moments of the trip: asphalt! What bliss, what smoothness. What a beautiful invention bitumen is!
After calling Nadine, I head toward Dawson City, 30 km to the west. A music festival is taking place there. I thought the village would remain quiet given its isolation, but I was wrong: it is overflowing with partygoers and the muddy streets are packed. At the tourist office, a lady in period costume regretfully informs me that everything is full. She gives me the coordinates of a provincial campground located… 500 km away, near Whitehorse! I have to summon my courage once again. I wash the bike, take a few photos, and set off. No choice.
