06:30 Campground (Twin Lakes, 120 km west of Whitehorse)
18:30 Stewart (BC) 1160 km
Another long and difficult day of motorcycling.
The morning is crisp (6°C). No rain at the start, but my entry into British Columbia is celebrated by heavy showers accompanied by a biting cold.
After a few hours of monotonous riding, I turn onto the Cassiar Highway. Despite the fatigue washing over me, I can’t help but appreciate this superb road lost in the forests of western BC. It is winding, and the appearance of high mountains adds to the beauty. But the remaining 600 km seem daunting, as I have just finished 600 others! The distances here are massive, and there aren’t really any points of interest aside from a generic village every 200 km.
There are two remaining gravel sections of 20 or 30 km each. Despite the intense practice of the last few days, they are very difficult to tackle. It’s like I have a mental block—a pure and simple apprehension of gravel on a motorcycle! The road has little traffic, save for big trucks and RVs.
Ah, the RVs (recreational vehicles). I still have a lot of trouble understanding what pushes people to travel with their house and their car towed behind. What kind of insecurity do these people suffer from to have to bring everything they own just to get a change of scenery? Especially since the RVs here are practically buses… for two people! And often, they tow a large SUV or a motorcycle behind. Only in America! What a waste.
Fortunately, the motorcycle allows me to overtake and weave through quickly despite the many curves and slopes. I finally arrive on the road to Stewart where I pass the superb Bear Glacier. A few tourist photos and I continue toward the town.
Actually, “village” is more appropriate to describe Stewart. “Ghost town” would be even more accurate! Everything seems to have stopped 100 years ago here. I am looking for the tourist information office when I stumble upon a pressure car wash. What a joy to wash the machine as well as my clothes! The owner is very friendly; he explains that there are only two hotels in the village and strongly recommends Ripley’s.
What a lovely surprise. I am welcomed with open arms into a superb, typical little oasis decorated with antiques. A charming and very affordable place! While getting my room keys, I run into three Belgians. I have a little “jasette” with them (a great Quebec expression for a chat!) which ends up at the hotel restaurant, Ripley’s Café, over a few good bottles of wine and a high-quality meal. The place is magnificently decorated.
We exchange ideas on fascinating topics. I note once again that, as a francophone Quebecer, I have much more in common with Europeans than with English-speaking Americans or Canadians.
A superb evening that will certainly give me the strength to find the sun (I hope!) tomorrow. I realize that the company and the conversations have done me a world of good, as I had accumulated a lot of “solitude points” these past few days.
