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Day 20: Skagit Valley Provincial Park

·566 words·3 mins

08:00 Hampton Campground (BC)
09:00 Skagit Valley Provincial Park (BC)
18:00 Vancouver (BC) | 300 km

During my pass through the previous day, I had stopped at a rest area in Manning Provincial Park where several hiking trails began. I had been impressed by the presence of trees that were 500 or 600 years old.

Superb trees at Skagit Provincial Park

So, I returned there today to climb Silverdaisy Mountain.

Still a bit of energy left in the legs!

It is a beautiful mountain, very wild. The climb is quite difficult and constant. At the trailhead, there is a small sign, similar to the “Adopt-a-Highway” signs on freeways, except here the inscription says “Adopt-a-Trail” in the name of Sev Heiberg.

At first, I find it a bit silly. In the solitude of the walk, I catch myself thinking about it and, above all, finding the idea totally useless: who would want to adopt a trail just to see their name displayed at the start of the path?

The walk is demanding because the slope is steep. The mountain is deserted, which increases the chances of crossing paths with bears or grizzlies—a very real risk in Western Canada. I am, in fact, carrying bear spray and a small bell that drives me crazy, but it announces my presence so as not to surprise an animal.

After three hours of climbing, around a sharp bend in a steep passage, I get the fright of my life. I come literally face to face with an old man, right in the middle of the mountain!

The contact is startling: I have been walking for hours without a sign of human presence, focused on bears, and suddenly I jump in front of a man over 80 years old! Even more surprising, he is busy cutting the grass, branches, and trunks obstructing the path.

The legendary Sev Heiberg at work!

And yes, I have just run into the man who adopted the trail: Sev Heiberg.

We talk for several minutes, and I discover an extraordinary man who makes my initial reflections completely wrong. He is exactly 82 years old and is there, in the middle of a mountain that is difficult to access even for someone young and experienced like me.

Living history.

This meeting gave me a lot of food for thought for my final push toward the summit.

A little further on, I pass a man in his thirties accompanied by a young girl. They are also working on maintenance. They explain to me that they are there to help Mr. Heiberg popularize this little-known trail. We go back to see Mr. Heiberg because they want a photo with him, which I gladly agree to snap.

On my way back down, I run into Mr. Heiberg again, who is tackling a tree trunk that has fallen across the path… with a hand saw! I offer to finish the job. Three-quarters of it is already done, but I had to work hard to finish sawing the tree. Imagine: he had already cut this trunk in two places. I realize I am dealing with someone extraordinary.

In the evening, an Internet search confirms that this man was one of the great explorers and mountaineers of Western Canada, having been the first to climb several high peaks in British Columbia.

After this adventure, I went to Hope to look for a motel, not feeling like camping. Eventually, I contacted a friend living in Vancouver, Cameron, with whom I spent the evening and who kindly hosted me.